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HORSE PACKING 



HORSE 
PACKING 



BY 

CHARLES JOHNSON POST, 

Formerly First Lieutenant and Battalion Quartermaster 

71st Regiment, N. G. N. T. and First Lieutenant 

8th Coast Artillery, N. Gk N. Y. 

Author of '-Across the Andes'" 

A Manual of Pack Transportation 



©-tFW-N-G 

HANDBOOKS 



Clumber 49 




NEW YORK 

OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 

MCMXIV 



S\Cgo\ 



Copyright, 1914 By 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 



Entered at Stationer's Hall, London, England, 
All rights reserved 



■MAY IS 1914 


$7o 


©CI.A371912 


-*M>/ 



INTRODUCTION 

Ordinarily a book of this kind needs no introduc- 
tion; it either explains itself in the clearness of the 
diagrams and pages or else it is so didactically incom- 
prehensible that no amount of introduction could pos- 
sibly clarify the atmosphere. 

But I am under obligations to various gentlemen 
whose suggestions, or methods, have appeared to me 
of great value in presenting and arranging this subject. 
There is the unknown gentleman — perhaps many of them 
— who have devised or evolved the typical method of 
preparing Army drill regulations of the United States. 
It is the most compact, exact and limpid method of 
standardizing and transmitting information of this char- 
acter that has been devised. A thousand years from now 
men who have never seen the execution of an evolution 
of our present generation could work and drill in 
the forgotten maneuvres with as great an exactness as 
soldiers are drilled to-day. And that is the test of 
clearness. 

I have therefore adopted the method of the Army 
manual — not that I intend it as a rigid method of exe- 
cution for packs or hitches, but that it is absolute in its 



exact directness of explanation. Whether a packer 
sings out, "Kill 'em." or "Cinch!" is a matter of no im- 
portance — I have no intention of offering a mere vocab- 
ulary — but that, at certain stages of throwing a hitch, 
some signal facilitates the work, is a matter of im- 
portance. So I have given an apparent formality to 
methods solely for purposes of clearness. When 
two men understand each other— as I have seen a team 
of packers work in loading an Army mule — there ap- 
pears a conjurer's rope that seems to fairly flow in 
even coils through the mazes of an intricate hitch, sud- 
denly to grow rigid as the mule grunts while the watch 
has ticked off but fifty seconds. 

I am also under obligations to War Department 
Document No. 360, a most interesting compila- 
tion of pack transportation in the Army, and to 
the able contributions that Mr. H. W. Daly, Chief 
Packer of the Quartermaster's Department has made 
to that Document, and to Col. Hugh L. Scott who 
assisted in its preparation. Colonel Scott describes 
Mr. Daly as one of the last of the old-time packers 
who grew up with the pack service under General 
George Crook. He ascribes to him the study that re- 
sulted in the discovery of the cause of the bunches that 
arise on the pack animal's body; to him also the method 
of curing the bunches and various inventions that have 
added greatly to the service and development of sci- 
entific pack transportation in the United States Army. 
I have given the detailed specifications for the aparejo 
from this document so that, if necessary, the aparejo 
may be made when needed. 

I wish also to make my acknowledgment of appre- 
ciation to Sergeant Wiman of the Quartermaster's De- 
partment in charge of the pack transportation at West 



Point. I first heard of the Wiman One-man Hitch, de- 
scribed in this present manual, from him. It is beyond 
question the best of all the one-man hitches. 

Therefore, if this manual seems to have an Army 
flavor, it is by reason of collecting in a simple intelli- 
ble form all of the important hitches used in pack trans- 
portation and with such suggestions that they may be 
employed as circumstances demand. It is the purpose 
that this shall be offered for the needs of the explorer, 
the prospector, packer, the Army service or the pack 
service in the National Guard. 

And I have relied upon diagrams to express the sim- 
ple stages of a hitch. 



Table of Contents 

Page 

Introduction 7 

Definitions 11 

General Rules 14 

Organization for Military Purposes 15 

Marches 16 

Records of Endurance 17 

Standard Pack Mules 19 

Diseases of Pack Animals 23 

The Aparejo 24 

Care of the Pack Animal 32 

Specifications for Aparejo 34 

Latigo 50 

To Lair Up a Pack 52 

Slinging the Cargo 60 

One-Man Cargo Sling 66 

Cross Sling 75 

HITCHES 

Diamond Hitch, Single 78 

Diamond Hitch, Double 92 

Wiman One-Man Hitch 104 

Pole Hitch 114 

Saw Buck Saddle 122 

Saw Buck Slings 125 

Cross Tree Hitch 132 

Squaw Hitch 140 

Lifting Hitch 146 

Stirrup Hitch 155 

Saddle Hitch 163 

To Construct a Travois 168 

Mule Litter 172 

APPENDIX 

Cordage, Ropes, Splices Knots, etc 173-197 

Index 199 



HORSE PACKING 



DEFINITIONS 

Aparejo — The type of pack saddle that is solely a pad 

for the animal's back. 
Bell Horse — A horse (or mule) with a bell fastened to 

its neck. It marches at the head of a pack train. 
Bivouac — To camp without tents. A hasty camp in the 

open. 
Blind — A hood to cover the eyes of the animal when 

loading it. 
Brake — To balance or even the two side packs on the 

animal. 
Breast Strap — A band or strap that is attached to the 

saddle and that passes across the animal's breast 

to keep the load from slipping back. 
Bunch — A swelling or puffing up, like a bruise, caused 

by the over pressure in that spot of the saddle or 

load. 
Cargo — The collection of freight for a pack train or 

pack animal. 
Cargador — The assistant to a pack master. 
Chief Packer — The head of any number of pack trains. 

The head of any system of Pack Transportation. 
Cincha (or Cinch) — The broad band that comes beneath 

the animal's belly and on which the strain of the 

hitch comes. A cincha with its attached latigo are 

commonly known as the cinch. 
Cinch — To Cinch — To tighten to the limit, as a lash 

rope, a latigo, a girth, etc. 
Corona — The saddle pad or blanket that is first placed 

on the animal and that comes next to its hide. 
Cross-Tree — Another name for the saw buck pack saddle. 
Crupper — The band that passes from the saddle under 

the animal's tail or dock. It keeps the saddle from 

slipping forward. 
Dock — The root of the tail. 

11 



12 HORSE PACKING 

Dock-piece — That portion of the crupper that fits under 
the dock. 

Girth — The band or strap encircling the animal or pass- 
ing under it by which the saddle or aparejo is held 
in place on the animal's back. 

Hitch (in pack transportation) — The term by which any 
method of attaching a load to the back of an animal 
by means of a rope is known. Securing a load by 
a hitch is known as "Throwing the Diamond (or 
such-and-such) Hitch." 

Lair Rope — The rope by which a pack is lashed in a 
load either by itself or in a manta or pack cover. 
It is about 30 feet long. 

Load — The whole burden for one animal. 

Lash Rope — The rope, about 40 to 50 feet in length, by 
which the hitch is thrown and the load lashed on 
the animal. 

Latigo — The strap attached to a cincha or saddle for the 
purpose of securing the cincha or girth around" the 
animal through a ring (rendering ring) at the other 
end. 

Near Side — The left side of an animal. 

Off Side — The right side of an animal. 

On Side — The near side of an animal. Same as near 
side. 

Pac^ — One side of the load on an animal, as the near 
pack, the off pack. 

(To Pack — To load the animal or animals. Also the 
act of transporting by the backs of animals.) 

Pack Cover — A square of canvas (about 6 by 6 feet) in 
which the component parts of a pack are lashed. 

Pack Blanket — A blanket placed under the pack saddle 
or aparejo. 

Packer — One qualified to pack the cargoes and throw 
the hitches. 

Pack Master — One who is in charge of a pack train. 

Pack Saddle — Any arrangement or device for carrying 
freight on the back of an animal, in distinction to the 
Aparejo which may be a pad of the simplest de- 
scription. 

Pack Train — Any number of pack animals operating in 
a single unit. The standard military pack train 
consists of 50 pack mules, complete equipment, 14 
men, 14 riding mules and 1 bell horse. 



DEFINITIONS 13 

Picket Rope — A rope used to tether an animal and keep 
it from wandering while grazing. Also the rope to 
which many animals are fastened in rank. 

Rendering Ring — The ring through which the Latigo is 
passed to cinch it and make it fast. 

Riding Load— The load or pack that is carried above and 
between the two side packs. 

Rigging — The complete aparejo. 

Running Part — Same as Running Rope. 

Running Rope — That, part of a rope between the free end 
and that place on the Rope at which movement, as 
in pulling or tightening, ceases. Thus, in a block 
and pulley the portion of the rope between one 
pulley and where it is fastened to the bottom of 
the other pulley, never moves, as do the other ropes 
in hauling; it is the standing part. The rest is the 
Running Part or Parts. It is the same in the turns 
of any hitch, one portion of the rope is immovable 
on the packs; the rest is the Running Part. 

Sam Buc\ Saddle — See Chapter for description of the 
same. 

Sling Rope— The rope used to hold the packs on the 
animal's back in the proper place so that the hitch 
may be thrown. It is about 30 feet long. 

Sobre-jalma— The aparejo cover with the heavy horizontal 
sticks on each side that holds the lower turns of 
the hitch on both sides. (Variously known as the 
sobber hammer, soldier hammer, sovereign, etc.) 

Standing Pari — See Running Rope. 
Standing Rope — See Running Rope. 
Striding Load — Same as Riding Load. 
Top Load — Same as Riding Load. 



14 HORSE PACKING 

GENERAL RULES 

Pack animals should be allowed to drink on the 
march, when they indicate their thirst at fords, etc. 

Pack animals should be groomed, etc., and treated 
on the same basis as a saddle animal, in order to get 
the best results. 

Their backs should be carefully examined for burrs 
before putting on the blanket or aparejo. The hair 
should lie smooth and in one direction. 

A pack animal must always be blinded when put- 
ting on the aparejo and loads. If necessary to move to 
another position, remove the blinders, move, and then 
put them on again. 

A pack animal, when he puffs himself up while 
being loaded or just before cinching, should not be kicked 
in the belly to expel the rvind. Puffing gives the animal a 
brief pleasure and does not affect the lashing or cinch 
any — for it has to be tightened anyway a second time 
shortly after the march begins, owing to the stretch 
and give of the rope. 

The animals should be treated with kindness. 

A pack animal must have confidence at all times in 
the men of the outfit for without such implicit confi- 
dence, time is lost in packing and a thousand other 
irritating ways. The man is not on the animal's back 
all the time with spur and bit to hold him in hand and 
therefore confidence, and affection, if possible, should 
be established by uniform kindness. Fords, bad trails, 
etc., can be negotiated when this confidence exists 
where there would otherwise be nothing but balkiness 
and confusion. 

A load should never be adjusted uphill. Turn the 
animal so he faces downhill. 

Keep the pack train closed up, head to haunch. Do 
not allow it to straggle out. A wild and erratic ani- 
mal may be haltered to the pack ahead. Generally a 
pack train quickly settles down to the single file. 

The complete march for the day should be made 
without an extended "rest halt" if possible, and then go 
into the day's camp. In a hilly or mountainous country, 
short halts are necessary to straighten the loads, 
tighten them, etc. 



GENERAL RULES 15 

If a pack animal falls and it is necessary to cut the 
lash rope, cut it at the standing part. It will more 
quickly drop the load and do less injury to the rope. 

The aparejos should be removed at the end of a 
march and the animals allowed to roll. This is true 
unless their backs are lathered and overheated and the 
air is too keen or cold. 

When emergency compels the 'packing of very 
heavy loads beyond the normal, or there is a long 
march, do not allow the animals to wander from the 
single file or lie down. Every means should be used to 
keep them on their feet and marching. They can keep 
on marching when, if they lie down, they cannot get 
on their feet again even with the load off. Stupendous 
loads have, in emergencies, been packed on mules who 
could carry it as long as they were marching. This is 
a rule for emergency only, "keep them going." 

When two or more packers are with an outfit the 
one man hitches should never be used. Two packers 
should always work together. 

Pack transportation is continually a matter of judg- 
ment, experience, and common sense. It cannot be 
formalized like a military manoeuvre. It is intended for 
the most flexible and mobile service under all condi- 
tions, whether in the field of exploration or for mili- 
tary purposes. 

Efficiency can best be secured by preventing inex- 
pert interference. 

STANDARD OF ORGANIZATION FOR MILITARY 
PURPOSES 
A Pack Train consists of: 
50 Pack Mules, 
I Bell Horse, 
and 14 Riding Mules. 
I Pack Master, 
I Cargador, 
1 Blacksmith, 
1 Cook, 

and 14 Packers, 
with complete outfit for camp and subsistence and the 
requisite number of riding saddles and aparejos. 



16 



HORSE PACKING 



MARCHES 

On a road or trail in ordinary country a pack mule 
with a load of 250 pounds can make 25 miles a day with- 
out difficulty. This is the ordinary military load and 
march. And a pack mule can keep this up practically 
twelve months of the year if his back be kept free from 
sores. 

NOTE. — This assumes the United States Army 
aparejo. This aparejo enables a packer to cure the pre- 
liminary "bunches" or saddle bruises before they can 
develop into sores. Of no other known pack saddle or 
device is this true. The saw buck is good for light and 
occasional use or where mules can be worked in relays, 
but to keep one train of pack animals constantly in the field 
under ordinary or heavy pack work the Army aparejo 
is the only packing outfit that can be used and keep the 
animal's back fit. 

Over a rough, hilly and mountainous country a pack 
mule will carry 250 pounds and march 10 to 15 miles, 
depending on the difficulties. 

The following table is the standard rate of march 
under varying loads for the United States Army: 

Maximum Number Number 

rate of of miles of days 

travel per day. continuous 
Weight of Load. per hour. travel. 

200 pounds 8 25 7 

7 40 10 

6 50 7 

6 100 3 

5 25 365 

250 pounds 8 25 3 

7 40 7 

6 100 1 

6 50 5 

6 25 30 

6 20 60 

5 100 2 

5 50 10 

5 25 60 

5 20 90 



RECORDS OF ENDURANCE 



17 



Maximum Number Number 



Weight of Load. 

300 pounds 

«< 

tt 

350 pounds 

400 pounds 



rat2 of 

travel 

per hour. 

5 
5 
5 

5 

4 
4 



of miles of days 
per day. continuous 
travel. 



75 
50 
25 
20 
20 
15 



1 

7 
30 
60 
30 
30 



RECORDS OF ENDURANCE 

The endurance of the pack mule is amazing. The 
following are from the official records of the United 
States Army: 

In 1881 a company of Indian scout's and one pack 
train made a march of 85 miles in 12 hours under loads 
of 200 pounds to each animal. This was under Colonel 
Buell of the 15th Infantry against the Apaches. 

A company of Indian scouts and one pack train later, 
but in pursuit of the same Apaches, marched about 60 
miles between sunrise and sunset. They were then 
loaded on cars and shipped by rail to Fort Craig, New 
Mexico, and marched across some 30 miles to the San 
Mateo mountains, loaded 250 pounds to the mule; then 
without making an all-night camp struck the trail of 
the Apaches and followed it into Old Mexico. About 
300 miles was covered in about four days. 

From San Carlos Agency, Arizona, in 1882, a com- 
pany of scouts and one pack train, loaded 200 pounds 
to the mule, made a forced march of 280 miles in three 
days. 

In 1891 and 1892, during the Garza campaign on 
the Rio Grande, Texas, a troop of the 3rd Cavalry and 
part of a pack train, loaded 250 pounds to the mule, 
were marched 108 miles in 16 hours. 

In the same campaign another pack train marched 
104 miles in a night and part of the following day. 

Also in the same campaign another pack train made 
90 miles in less than twenty-four hours, each mule 
loaded with 250 pounds. 



18 HORSE PACKING 

These mules were in perfect condition — not from 
long rest — but from constant and properly supervised 
use. Of course, after such heavy strains they were 
given a day's rest to regain their normal condition. 

The writer has made a forced march across a South 
American desert with a pack train of the little native 
mules. In 26 hours they marched a shade over 100 
miles, with one halt of 10 minutes and one of 2 hours 
at a camp by water. At the finish one mule broke 
into a trot as it recognized the station some three miles 
away and trotted up to the rails showing but little 
signs of fatigue. A careful comparison with the in- 
voices showed that it had been carrying a weight of a 
little over 400 pounds. Native packers were used and 
they thought this nothing unusual. 

Another instance was that of a little South Ameri- 
can mule that carried a revolutionary field gun weighing 
600 pounds a distance of 6 miles and with the half-breed 
packer riding on top in addition. The minute the mule 
halted, it dropped under its burden as if shot. The 
native packer was punished. 

In the Philippine Islands the mount of a navy rapid- 
fire gun of the U. S. gunboat "Quiros" was carried 
three miles inland on a pack mule, and later back to the 
gunboat again. It weighed 540 pounds and was carried 
by the mule over the poor trails or cross country on the 
Island of Jolo. 



STANDARD PACK MULE 19 



DESCRIPTION OF STANDARD PACK MULE 

To be of sound body, chunky and solid in build, and 
at a walk or trot with a firm, free and springy action. 

To be between 4 and 6 years old, and weight 
between 950 and 1,020 pounds, and run from 14.1 to 15 
hands high. Larger size, if possible is no bar, if the 
general type of efficiency and action is the same. 

Head of medium size, intelligent and well-formed, 
not Roman nosed or too large. Between the eyes, 
broad. 

Eyes clear and large and NOT inclined to show 
the white. 

Teeth sound, tongue good and clear, mouth and 
muzzle well formed and firm; avoid a hanging under lip. 

Neck, inclined to arch, stocky and full. The withers 
should be low and broad. 

Chest, holding therefore legs well apart and indi- 
cating good capacity of lungs, The division well 
marked. Not high at center. 

Knees, wide in front and without blemish 

Back, straight and short showing a strong back over 
kidneys. 

The barrel should be deep and large, with hips well 
rounded and broad. 

The dock should offer springy resistance. 

Hocks, well apart, and strong; pasterns, short and 
strong, without scratches, cuts or bruises. 

Hoofs, broad, sound and full with the frog well 
developed, elastic and healthy. 



20 



HORSE PACKING 




STANDARD PACK MULE 



21 



POINTS OF A PACK ANIMAL 



Head 



1. Muzzle. 

2. Nostril. 

3. Forehead. 



6, 6, 6. Crest. 



4. Jaw. 

5. Poll. 



Neck 

7. Throttle or windpipe. 



Fore Quarter 



8, 8. Shoulder Blade. 

9. Point of shoulder. 

10. Bosom or breast. 

11. 11. True arm. 

12. Elbow. 

13. Fore-arm (arm). 

14. Knee. 



15. Cannon bone. 

16. Back sinew. 

17. Fetlock or pastern joint. 

18. Coronet. 

19. Hoof or foot. 

20. Heel. 



Body or Middle Piece 

21. Withers. 25. The loins. 

22. Back. 26. The croup. 

23. 23. Ribs (forming to- 27. The hip. 

gether the barrel or 28. The flank. 





chest). 


29. Sheath. 


24, 


24. The circumference 


30. The root of the tail or 




at this point called 


dock. 




the girth. 






Hind 


Quarter 


31. 


The hip joint. 


38. The cannon bone. 


32. 


The stifle joint. 


39. The back sinew. 


33, 


33. Lower thigh or 


40. Pastern or fetlock joint. 




gaskin. 


41. Coronet. 


34. 


The quarters. 


42. Hoof or foot. 


35. 


The hock. 


43. Heel. 


36. 


The point of the hock. 


44. Spavin place. 


37. 


The curb place. 


' 



22 



HORSE PACKING 




DISEASES OF PACK ANIMAL 23 

DISEASES OF THE PACK ANIMAL 

1. Caries of the lower jaw. 

2. Fistula of the parotid duct. 

3 Bony excrescence or exostosis of the lower jaw. 

4. Swelling by pressure of bridle. 

5. Poll evil. 

6. Inflamed parotid gland. 

7. Inflamed jugular vein. 

8. Fungus tumor, produced by pressure of the collar. 

9. Fistula in the withers. 

10. Saddle Gall. 

11. Tumor of the elbow. 

12. Induration of the knee. 

13. Clap of the back sinews. 

14. Malanders. 

15. Splint. 

16. Ringbone. 

17. A tread upon the coronet. 

18. Quittor. 

19. Sand crack. 

20. Contracted or ring foot of a foundered animal. 

21. Capped hock. 

22. Malanders. 

23. Spavin. 

24. Curb. 

25. Swelled sinews. 

26. Thick leg. 

27. Grease. 

28. A crack in front of hoof, called cow crack. 

29. Quarter crack. 

30. Ventral hernia. 

31. Rat tail. 



24 HORSE PACKING 



THE APAREJO. 

In reality the load lashed on the aparejo is carried 
virtually on the ribs; their resilience taking up the galK 
ing pounding of a dead load, or adjusting it to a most 
remarkable extent. In addition to this the manner of 
padding the aparejo is such that galls, bruises, bunches, 
etc., can be cared for, or rather the pressure of the 
padding on those parts can be eased away so that Na- 
ture itself can relieve and cure the point of hurt. 

Ribs for the Aparejo. — A reference to the accom- 
panying diagram and illustration will clearly show what 
is meant by "ribbing" the aparejo, and also demonstrate 
the essential principle of the aparejo as against other 
forms of pack saddle. 

The important principle in ribbing the aparejo with 
these small sticks is that the diameter of the first one 
shall be greatest at the front of the aparejo and then 
the others shall lessen gradually in diameter till the 
slenderest rib is at the rear. 

An aparejo will require from fifty to sixty sticks, 
or from twenty-five to thirty on each side. 

The first stick on each side that is placed under the 
collar or forward end should be of about 2/& of an inch 
in diameter. The diameter of the last stick must be 3/£ 
of an inch. The sticks should be selected and laid out 
beforehand in a row in the order of their diminishing 
diameters. Any not clear, straight and sound must be 
rejected. This is for the ordinary load of 250 pounds. 
For heavier loads slightly, very slightly heavier ribs 
must be made. 

The butt end of each rib should be cut square across, 
i. e., flat, and have been cut to a slight taper for about 
two inches. This is for greater ease in holding to the 
flat surface of the boot stick. 

Kind of roood for ribs. — The ribs must have tough- 
ness, springiness or resilience, straightness, freedom 



THE APAREJO 



25 




X-Ray of Aparejo showing arrangement of strips. 
The Aparejo is laid out flat. 




The Aparejo showing hand-holes. 



mMMMMMk 




Wedge shape stick for tamping grass in boot of 
aparejo. 



26 HORSE PACKING 

from any irregularities or knots or blemishes, and a 
slow, even taper. 

Natural sprouts are generally most available where 
pack transportation is needed and are ordinarily quite 
as good if not superior to any fancy woods from the 
shop. Also they are most easily renewed when neces- 
sary and without delay. (For standard hickory ribs 
made in shop see Hickory Ribs.) 

The willow is excellent and found in some vari- 
ety almost everywhere. The gray, black, red, button, 
and desert willows are the most suitable. Dogwood 
and arrowwood are generally too short and irregular 
but are good if the other conditions are met. The 
guayaba (generally known in the United States as 
"guava") of tropical countries has been found to fur- 
nish excellent sticks for ribbing aparejos. But ash, 
hickory or pecan sprouts have been found to give the 
very best results when it is possible to secure them. 

Boot-slices. — These boot-sticks are of a hard wood, 
21 1^ inches long, 2i^ inches wide, and Z/ A of an inch 
thick. The ends must be rounded on one side. 

Ribbing the Aparejo. — The aparejo should be first 
soaked in water for about a half an hour; if the water 
is slightly warmed one-half that time will be sufficient 
and then drained. 

The boot-sticks are then inserted so that the rounded 
ends face the inside of the back piece of the aparejo. 
Under no circumstances must a boot-stick be forced 
into place for then as the leather dries the strain will 
burst the stitching or rapidly wear a way through. 
The boot-stick is introduced through the hand hole 
and adjusted across the bottom of the boot, the flat 
surface of the boot-stick to face the inside belly piece. 

Now introduce through the hand hole the largest 
rib, butt end first, placing it in the forward corner of 
the boot, the end of the stick resting against and over 
the flattened surface of the boot-stick. The rib must 
be of the right length and never too long or too short. 

It is best that the ribs be selected, or graded as 
to diameter, in pairs so that the corresponding ribs 
on each side of the aparejo are put in place practically 
together. 

Each rib should be measured for the position it is 



THE APAREJO 27 



to occupy before inserting. Place butt end on the 
aparejo resting on the lower edge of the boot-stick in 
line with the stitching of collar at its forward end. 
Cut the stick at the place indicated by the forward 
part of the stitching and round off the end. 

The aparejo should be ribbed as described with a 
gradually diminishing diameter of ribs until the for- 
ward half of the ribs are in place. Then begin at the 
rear in the same manner as described and rib forward, 
beginning at the rear with the rib of smallest diameter 
and steadily increasing toward the center. 

The aparejo is now ribbed. 

PadSng the Aparejo. — Hay, of the proper quality, 
is the most easily obtained padding under almost all 
circumstances. The best hay is the thin, wiry grass 
such as is often used for the ordinary packing of mer- 
chandise. It must be of even quality and of such a 
character that it does not mat, but can be easily sep- 
arated and diminished in any spot desired yet without 
disturbing or distorting the whole mass of adjoining 
padding. Mosj or similar substances may be used in 
emergencies. 

A stick for tamping is now needed and the end is 
shown in the illustration; the grooved end shown is 
for the purpose of holding a grip on the hay. 

Stand the aparejo up on its boots with the hand 
holes facing out. In small quantities the hay is intro- 
duced into the aparejo and pressed into the corners of 
the boots. Tamp well with the stick. The four cor- 
ners should each be equal. 

Along the center of the boot the hay is tamped 
lightly. The boot when tamped should have a thick- 
ness of about 4 inches and a depth of about the same. 

Now spread the aparejo out upon the ground with 
the hand holes uppermost. Examine it to see that 
the ribs are all in place and adjust any that have been 
worked out of position. 

Through the hand holes introduce one layer of hay 
spreading it evenly over the ribs. The tamping stick 
may be used to reach the more remote sections. Be 
sure that the hay lies evenly and of an equal thickness, 
without lumps or variations in thickness. Then lay 
in a second course of hay. Experience alone can de- 



28 HORSE PACKING 

termine the amount — and the ease with which more 
may be added or some taken away makes this a matter 
of less importance than were the paddings to be sewn 
in — but after the hay has been well settled in place by 
a little actual use the thickness throughout the body 
of the aparejo should be about 2 inches. 

The aparejo should have a rather thin appearanc 
and not appear fat with padding. 

The thickness of the padding at the boot's is 4 
inches, from this it decreases to the hand holes to 
about 2 inches. At the top or center the normal thick- 
ness extends to within about 4 inches of the center 
stitch line and then gradually decreasing to the middle 
seam where it is practically nothing. 

This is the basic padding. Additional padding for 
the aparejo is now added in order to conform to the 
shape of the animal. 

Each front boot is now dressed or faced, as it is 
called. Extra padding is inserted in the front corner 
to a distance of about 7 inches from the corner. The 
original bed of padding must not be disturbed in this 
process; it can be avoided by introducing the addi- 
tional padding with the palm of the hand up. For 
the next 4 inches the padding rapidly decreases in 
thickness toward the hand hole. 

The front boot should be better padded than the 
rear; for ordinary mules the difference is about 1 inch 
in thickness. This is a matter of judgment and experi- 
ence and will vary with the conformation of the mule; 
the larger the girth the more padding is need to make 
the aparejo sit well on the animal. 

Under the collar of the aparejo should now be placed 
padding to fit the withers of the animal. Insert the 
hay with the back of the hand down so as not to dis- 
turb the previous layer and carry the hay well into 
the corners of the front. Increase the width and depth 
of the padding as you get away from the corners. 
Then decrease the thickness of the padding as the cen- 
ter and hand hole is approached. The thickness of 
padding is governed by the height to the animal's 
withers. 

These paddings should be of such thickness and ad- 
justment that when the aparejo is cinched the top 



THE APAREJO 



29 



should be level and the bottom of each boot level and 
even with each other. 

The front edge, between the boot and collar may 
now have an additional line of padding added between 
the boot and collar so that the aparejo may better con- 
form to the body of the animal in cinching. 

The aparejo is now set up. 

Lacing the Crupper. — Fasten the leather thong 
through the upper hole on the crupper. (There are 2 
thongs each about seven feet long, one for each side.) 
Lace the crupper to the forward facings as shown in 
the illustration so that the tie shall come at the last 
hole of the crupper. The lacing must begin at the top 
and work down. 




30 HORSE PACKING 

To fasten Sobre-jalma or Aparejo Cover. — Punch two 
holes at each end of the aparejo and in the center 
(they will come just over the back bone of the animal) 
and fasten a short thong in each. Punch two holes 
in corresponding positions in the aparejo cover or 
sobre-jalma. Lash the sobre-jalma in place with the 
thongs. 

The aparejo is now ready for use. 

Adjusting the Aparejo. — This can only be done ap- 




The Sobre-jalma 
proximately at the time of the first saddling. An ani- 
mal should be fitted with its aparejo and worked in it, 
such changes being made in its padding as are appar- 
ently demanded so that it will the better conform to 
the shape of the animal, and such as are needed from 
time to time by the development of bunches. (See 
Care of the Pack Animal, Bunches and Swellings.) 

Sore Docks or Tails. — Should the crupper cut the 
animal's tail or dock it is an indication that the apar- 
ejo does not fit properly; that there is too much filling 
in the boots to the rear. If the boots at the rear are 
too thickly filled, or the aparejo generally too heavily 
padded at the rear, it cannot grip the animal's body 
properly so as to prevent a too great forward motion 
in travel that the crupper against the dock and chafes 
it into a sore. 

An aparejo should never be less than 24 inches wide 
in order that there may be a sufficient bearing surface 
on the body of the animal to hold it properly in place. 
With too small a bearing surface the aparejo works 



THE APAREJO 



31 



out of its position and either makes a constant and 
wearing adjustment necessary throughout the march or 
wears sore tails. 

Care of the Aparejo. — The leather equipment should 
be cleaned whenever they become dirty with dirt and 
grit or dust and whenever they become saturated with 
the sweat of the animal. Do not separate the crupper 
from the aparejo. Wash with a lather of castile soap 
and water. If the leather is hard and dry apply a 
little neat's-foot oil after the washing with castile 
soap. The surplus oil should be sponged off with soap 
and water lightly applied. 

There are in general use the 62, 60, and 58 inch 
aparejos, i. e., measuring from end to end 62, 60, and 
58 inches, respectively. 




32 HORSE PACKING 



CARE OF THE PACK ANIMAL. 

Sore Withers. — If the aparejo is ribbed with too 
weak ribs it will cause sore withers; this may lead to 
thissolow or fistula. The size of ribs given in the pre- 
ceding pages is for the ordinary, standard Army load 
of 250 pounds. 

Sore withers are also caused by not sufficient pad- 
ding under the collar of the aparejo. 

Sore Loins. — The causes are the same for this as 
for sore withers. 

Note. — It should be emphasized that if too large 
sticks used in ribbing are too stiff, they will not easily 
break in with the shape of the animal. They should 
be used, only slightly heavier, when very heavy loads 
are to be regularly carried for a trip, that is, loads of 
300 pounds and upwards. 

But these are matters that can only be acquired by 
actual experience. The printed page can only outline 
standards and possible variations. 

Bunches and Swellings. — A bunch is a swelling, a 
puffing up, under the skin. It shows an uneven pres- 
sure or bearing in the aparejo or the load. It is from 
these small bunches that the galls and saddle sores 
develop under continuous use and that have been re- 
garded as a necessary incident of packing. 

A bunch almost always is the result of unevenness 
in ribbing or padding; in other words, it is a bruise. 
It is exactly parallel to the results caused by a wrinkle 
in the sock of a man on a march. Slight in the begin- 
ning yet it can break down a marching man in an 
incredibly short while. So it is with these bruises on 
pack animals. 

To Cure a Bunch or Saddle Swelling. — When a bunch, 
however small, is noted after unsaddling, wet 
the bunch with water. Now place the aparejo on the 
animal carefully so that it rests on the animal as it has 



CARE OF PACK ANIMAL 33 

been during the march. Take it off and observe where 
the wet spot of the bunch has left its mark on the apar- 
ejo. 

Carefully, so as. not to disturb the rest of the pad- 
ding, take the hay from under the wet spot so that no 
pressure for the next march can fall on the bunch. The 
principle is identical with that of treating corns with a 
corn plaster or hollow pad on the human foot. 

The bunch will rapidly subside. Gradually replace 
padding after a cure has been effected where it was 
taken out until the right quantity has been replaced. 

Even though the end of the march has been reached 
the animal having a bunch should be loaded and 
marched sufficiently to reduce the bunch. Ordinarily 
this will be a matter of a few hours. If the bunch is 
not reduced it will most likely form a "steadfast" 
which is something on the order of a permanent cal- 
lous. A neglect of thirty-six hours is sufficient to pro- 
duce a steadfast from a bunch, while after a neglect 
of but twenty-four hours a bunch is obstinate and dif- 
ficult to reduce. Bunches should be properly at- 
tended to. 

Bell}) Bunches. — When the bunch appears on the 
belly of the animal it is an indication that the boots 
of the aparejo have been too heavily padded, thereby 
forcing the aparejo to stand out from the animal and 
not conform to its shape, and a^ a result bringing 
a concentrated pressure on the belly with the cincha. 
When such a bunch appears on the belly all the hay 
or padding should be taken out from the boot across 
the width of the aparejo. 

The aparejo should bend with a certain springiness 
to the shape of the animal; experience alone can regu- 
late this and recognize its quality. The padding should 
be adjusted to conform to the irregularities in the form 
of the barrel of the animal. When these conditions 
are present the aparejo is well fitted. Then it is only 
the character of the load and the difficulties of the 
trail begin to make trouble with the bunches and 
bruises. 

The unapproachable superiority of the aparejo lies 
in the fact that it can (a) be more perfectly fitted to 
varying animal conformations than any other pack 
saddle; (b) that it can be more easily changed under 



34 



HORSE PACKING 



necessity after such fitting to any other animal of a 
different conformation; (c) that though bruises and 
bunches can never be prevented owing to the char- 
acteristic action of dead loads and the difficulties of 
trails, yet, with the aparejo, those bruises and bunches 
can be cured while continuing on the packing service 
and without injury to the animal. 



DETAILED SPECIFICATIONS. 

Take a 60-inch aparejo as a standard — 60 inches 
long and 24 inches wide throughout its entire length. 



A 

® 


® 

A ^ 


c\ B A | 



BODY OF APAREJO 
THE BODY OF THE APAREJO. 



35 



(a) The belly or body piece; (b) boots or end pieces; 
(c) boot facings; (d) hand holes; (e) center facing; 
(f) front facing; (g) crupper; (h) dock piece; (i) 
carrier piece; (j) back piece. 

Note. — The first two items of the above are some- 
times referred to as the "body pieces." 




THE BODY. 

To be made of solid, fair leather, tallow finish; 
sides to be of good spread, weighing from 12 to 14 
pounds to the side, free of cuts and blemishes. 

Cut the back piece 43^ inches long and 24 wide. 
Cut the belly or body piece 45 1^ inches long and 24 
inches wide. 

Cut boots 24 inches long and 18 inches wide. Face 
the boots at each end with a semicircular facing, fac- 
ing to be 18 inches long and 12 inches wide, diameter 
of semicircle to be 16 inches. Facings to meet at 
center of boot. 

The facings must be sewed on with three seams, 
one-fourth of an inch from their semicircular edges, 



36 HORSE PACKING 

and one seam 3 inches from the outward edge all 
around. 

The back piece has a front facing from end to end 
of 6^ inches wide. This facing to be of good solid 
leather, as it is to receive the crupper lacings. 

Facing to be sewed down with two seams 2^ inches 
from the inner edge for the first, 2 inches from the out- 
ward edge for the second. 

This facing to have 5^-inch holes punched 1 inch 
from the inner edge and spaced equally distant between 
the boot and center facing. 

Center facing to be 24 inches long and 8 inches wide; 
to be placed at center of back piece extending from 
front to rear, sewed down, with two seams on each 
side at the edge one-half of an inch apart. The front 
facing on back piece forms the front of the aparejo. 

The boots lap on to body pieces iy 2 inches on out- 
side; to be sewed down with three seams one-fourth 
of an inch apart and one-eighth of an inch from the 
edges. In lapping inside to back pieces the fleshy side 
of the belly piece must face outward. 

In closing up the body care should be taken to 
have the boots or ends doubled exactly alike, so that 
the top of the boot of belly piece will just meet the 
end of back or body piece. The center seam to be 
sewed down to belly and back pieces, and must posi- 
tively be in the center of the aparejo. 

The belly piece will have a "hand hole" 5i/^ inches 
long and 5 inches wide, cut out in center of belly piece 
15 inches from center seam to center of hole. 

Back piece to have a hand hole of similar dimen- 
sions cut in center of back or body piece, 10 inches 
from center seam to center of hole, this hand hole to 
be cut around to within 1 inch from either side of cen- 
ter at top. This forms a lid and is provided on the 
body in line with this, one-fourth of an inch from edge; 
both holes facing up and down. 

On back or body piece at rear a slit 12 inches long 
is provided; to be 2 inches from the outward or rear 
edge; commencing with 1 inch above the boot, running 
upward toward the center seam, and provided with 5 
holes on either side of slit, spaced equally distant to 
receive lacings. These slits are for the purpose of 






BODY OF APAREJO 37 



introducing the inside frame or ribbing for aparejo. 

The "hand hole" on back or body piece is provided 
for guiding ribs to position in boot and saddle bars. 

In front there must be a welt of good, solid leather, 
three-fourths of an inch wide, laid in between the belly 
and back pieces, extending from end to end, to be sewed 
down with two seams, three-eighths of an inch apart 
and one-fourth inch from edge. 

In sewing along edge at front, a space of three- 
fourths of an inch must be omitted, counting 3*/ inches 
from center seam each way. This to permit "key bar" 
to pass through in locking ribs of inside frame. 

Now punch two holes, three-fourths of an inch apart; 
the first at center of space, corresponding to hole pro- 
vided in brass "key bar," the second on the lower side, 
and provide thong 10 inches long to secure "key bar" 
to aparejo, both holes to be "up and down." 

The rear has a similar welt three-fourths of an inch 
wide and 14 inches long, extending 7 inches each way 
from center seam. 

Below this the "carrier" pieces are placed for the 
purpose of carrying the crupper, and are arranged by 
taking a piece of leather 4 by 8 inches, of half the thick- 
ness of the welt, folded the narrow way, slipped in ex- 
actly three-fourths of an inch, leaving the folded part 
out. 

The extending part of the "carrier" pieces will have 
three sets of holes five-sixteenths of an inch in diam- 
eter two holes at the upper end and three-fourths of an 
inch apart, the first hole to be 1 inch from end; two 
holes will be provided in similar manner at opposite 
end, and two holes in center in similar manner; the 
holes to be parallel with the length of "carrier" pieces. 

Thongs for each "carrier" piece will provided and 
to be of latigo leather, 12 inches long and five-six- 
teenths of an inch wide. 

From the "carriers" to the end of the aparejo there 
must be a welt similar to that described for the front; 
the whole to be sewed down with two seams in similar 
manner as described for the front. 

The collar that shapes the aparejo for the withers 
must be 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep; that is to 
say, 6 inches along the front seam at center and 6 



38 HORSE PACKING 



inches back toward rear, shaped in this manner: Three 
inches on each side of center stitch line of the aparejo, 
run back 4 inches parallel with center stitch line, then 
run 2 inches toward center stitch line, then back 2 
inches parallel with center stitch line, then up to center 
stitch line. 

The center seam, like center of collar, must posi- 
tively be in the center of the aparejo and exactly 
straight across the body. 

It is understood the collar is placed on the front 
as indicated by the front facing of the aparejo, and, 
like center seam, is sewed to back and belly pieces. 

Now punch two holes,~one on each side of the cen- 
ter stitch line and to be three-fourths of an inch apart 
at front and rear, spaced equally distant from center 
stitch line. These holes to be provided between the 
two outward seams with thong 10 inches long for lacing, 
to secure aparejo cover to aparejo. 

If using willow or other sticks cut two slits 2 inches 
long, one on each side of center stitch line, running 
downward from center stitch line, slits to be in center 
of aparejo. In cutting slits be careful not to cut 
through center stitch line. 

If using packing device cut two slits 1 inch long 
and three-sixteenths inch wide, counting 43/£ inches 
from center seam of aparejo to center to slit and 1 inch 
from each edge 

These are for the purpose to receive chock plates 
holding staples that receive the side plates of packing 
device, etc. 

Chock plates to be 13/£ inches square and one-eighth 
of an inch thick; corners to be rounded off. To secure 
chock plates to aparejo provide four holes three-six- 
teenths of an inch in diameter, one at each corner 
spaced equally distant, and five-sixteenths of an inch 
from outer edges. 

These to receive copper rivets that secure chock 
plates to aparejo. 

Next provide two holes three-fourths of an inch 
apart, counting from center of hole each way; there to 
be placed at center of chock plate and are for the pur- 
poses of receiving staples. 

Staples to be made of 3/16-inch best steel rod, and 



THE CRUPPER 39 

when shaped to have a depth of 1 inch. In shaping 
staples they must have uniform width of three-fourths 
of an inch from crown to base, counting from center 
to center of staple. On extremities of staples provide a 
shoulder of sufficient depth to receive the chock plate 
and to be securely riveted thereon. 

Note. — For 62-inch aparejo the body pieces are cut 
2 inches longer than that for a 60-inch aparejo. 

For 58-inch aparejo the body pieces are cut the same 
length as that provided for the 60-inch, the boots being 
cut ^24 inches long and 16 inches wide. 

Of 50 aparejos make twenty-five 60 inches long and 
24 inches wide, thirteen 62 inches long and 24 inches 
wide, and twelve 58 inches long and 24 inches wide. 

Note. — In ordering 50 aparejos the proportion of 
sizes should be as noted above. 

In width they must be uniformly 24 inches through- 
out their entire length; and collar with center seam 
must positively be in the center of the aparejo. 



THE CRUPPER 

To be of good, solid, fair leather, tallow finish, 
sides to be of good spread, weighing from 12 to 14 
pounds, and free from cuts and blemishes. 

Standard size for cruppers to Se 78 inches long and 
12 inches wide. To form crupper cut two sections 39 
inches long and 12 inches wide. 

At heaviest end, counting 3}i inches from one cor- 
ner, cut in 4 inches to form dock; now describe a cut 
upward, circling to within 24 inches of opposite end. 

Now allow a space of 2 inches for dock and cut in 
2 inches, and describe a cut downward, circling to 
within 24 inches of the opposite end. 

Half the crupper is thus shaped. Cut a correspond- 
ing one and lap both, allowing 4 inches for upper sur- 
face of dock, lap to be sewed down in center with two 
seams one-half of an inch apart; length of seams 4 
inches; before lapping ends shave down the under 
surface at ends. 

For top lacing provide a strip of good, solid leather 
30 inches long and 3 inches wide, shaped to extend 



40 HORSE PACKING 

around dock to within 24 inches of each end; cut 2 
more strips same width 26 inches long, lap 2 inches and 
sew down with two seams one-fourth of an inch from 
each edge. 

For bottom facing provide two strips of good solid 
leather 37 inches long, conforming to the shape of lower 
edge of crupper; commencing at one end there must 
be a uniform width of 3 inches, extending 15 inches 
toward opposite end, then describe a cut, circling to- 
ward center of dock, greatest width to be 6 inches; to 
be sewed down three seams, outer seams to be one- 
fourth of an inch from outer edges, the third, or center 
seam, to extend from dock to within 24 inches of 
opposite end. 




To form cover for dock, take a piece of good, solid 
leather 10 inches long and 7 inches wide doubled in 
center the long way, and at center of ends cut in 3 
inches, at end of cut and in center, use a ^-inch hand 
punch so that it will fit down into the dock, soak well, 
draw snug and sew down; shave off the under edges so 
as to leave it smooth on the animal's hips. 

Leave 1^ inches for dock and leave one or both 
ends open to introduce the stuffing. Deer or antelope 
hair is best for the purpose. 

Stuff and form the dock while the leather is soft. 

In shaping the dock rub it on top as the stuffing 
is introduced, at the same time bringing the ends of 
the crupper together and bending the ends of the dock 
upward so as to shape the dock to the animal's tail, 
and the butt of the crupper to the animal's hips. 

Lining for crupper to be of 28-inch No. 10 cotton 
duck, extending from dock to within 24 inches of end 
each way; in cutting allow for lap of 1 inch all around; 



APAREJO COVER OF SOBRE-JALMA 41 

to be sewed down with slanting stitch spaced one-half 
inch on upper and under sides. When lining is in 
position the upper edge of the crupper on either side 
of dock, extending 10 inches each way, to be bound 
down with sheepskin. 

In sewing the upper edge of top facing a space of 
10 inches should be omitted to receive this binding, 
binding to be then sewed down in regular manner. 

At each end of crupper five ^-inch holes are 
punched, the first and fifth to be in center of top and 
bottom facings, the rest spaced equally distant between 
the first and fifth and 1 inch from ends. On top facing 
and in center four ^-inch holes are punched, measur- 
ing for the first 24 inches from center of dock, and 
spaced equally distant to last hole on end of top facing. 

Lacing for crupper to be of best latigo leather one- 
half inch wide and 7 feet long 

Lacings to have a slit at heavy end 1^2 inches long 
in center and three-fourths of an inch from end. These 
to be fastened at hole provided on end of top facing 
of crupper. 

THE APAREJO COVER OF SOBRE-JALMA 

To be made of No 4, 22-inch cotton duck. The 
canvas is cut 4 inches shorter than the length of the 
body of the aparejo. It is faced on both sides with 
leather 4 inches wide from end to end and 5 inches 
wide across ends. These facings when put on must 
be allowed to extend over the sides and ends of canvas 
so as to make the cover three-eighths inch wider and 
longer than the aparejo; to be sewed with seam at 
each edge. The sewing on end or bottom facings must 
extend to ends of facings. 

The protecting sticks or shoes to be 21 inches long, 
2*A inches wide, and three-fourths of an inch thick, 
L taper the ends on one side to half the thickness at ends, 
extending 5-y^ inches toward center from each end, and 
taper on edges from center to a width of 1 inch at ends; 
to be placed in center of facings across ends. 

In tapering sticks do not allow a ridge in center. 
THe protecting sticks or shoes to be faced at each end, 
facing to be placed so as to leave an exposed surface 
of 10 inches wide in center; to be sewed down with 
two seams one-half inch apart, 



42 HORSE PACKING 

Now punch two holes three-fourths of an inch from 
edge of center, in front and rear, and three-fourths of 
an inch apart. This to secure aparejo cover to aparejo. 

If using packing device provide two strips of leather 
15 inches long and one-half inch wide these to be 
placed at front and rear and in center of aparejo cover, 
counting from each edge 1% inches, and to be sewed 
down with two seams 3 inches long and secured at 
each end of sewing by copper rivets. Now counting 
5 inches each way from center of sobre-jalma at front 
and rear provide a slit 1 inch long and three-sixteenths 
of an inch wide, slits to be parallel with the center of 
width of sobre-jalma. These to receive staples that 
secure the side plates of packing device. 



THE APAREJO CINCHA 

To be made of No. 4, 22-inch cotton duck. The 
canvas to be 8 inches longer than the aparejo for 
which intended, and folded so as to make two thick- 
nesses 10 inches wide; the lap to be sewed together 
with two seams and to be considered the surface side. 

For mountain battery service the canvas will be cut 
10 inches longer than the aparejo for which intended. 

One end of the cincha to be supplied with a section 
of 5^-inch gas pipe, flattened at ends and curved so as 
to take the place of a ring, to pass the latigo or tighten- 
ing strap around; when shaped must be 1 inch less than 
the width of the , cincha. Flattened ends to be pro- 
vided with holes punched 1-^ inches from ends, to 
receive No. 8 copper rivets to hold it in place. This 
iron is fastened to cincha by two pieces of good, solid 
leather, 11 inches long and 5^> inches wide and riveted 
to iron. Place one end of canvas between the folds of 
leather facing and sew down with three seams, two 
seams one-half inch apart, on outer edge, and one 
seam around edge of hole. This hole to be 3 inches 
wide and 3-^2 inches long, shaped half oval. The shape 
half oval to be up and down. 

This for the latigo or tightening strap to pass 
through. The reverse end of cincha is faced with 



THE APAREJO CINCHA 43 

leather 8 l / 2 inches on inside, 10 inches wide and 10 
inches long, cut conical shape on outside. Fold 1 T A 
inches from square end and lay into this fold a 5-16-inch 
iron rod 9 inches long; lay it over end of cincha and 
sew down with one seam across the end, so as to catch 
the short or under side of facing, and two seams one- 
half inch apart along the edge of conical facing. Care 
must be taken that the sewing extends to ends, so 
that the 5-16-inch iron rod will not escape. 

Fifteen inches from strap or rod end of cincha sew 
on a round piece of leather 3 inches in diameter on 
outside of cincha; punch two ^-inch holes, one inch 
apart in center. This to hold fastening, or finger loop, 




as it is termed, and should be of good, solid leather. 
Thong for fastening loop to be 12 inches long and 
one-half of an inch wide, of best latigo leather, secured 
underneath, allowing as much loop to extend on outside 
as possible. Its use is to hold end of latigo or tighten- 
ing strap when the aparejo is cinched on the animal. 

The latigo or tightening strap to be from 7 to 8 
feet long; width, l}i inches at heavy end and three- 
fourths of an inch at light end. 

The rendering ring in heavy end of tightening or 
cincha strap to be of 3-inch breeching ring, dropped 
into a bight, lapped 2 x / 2 inches inward; drop into lap 
the 3-inch ring, double over so as to leave a space of 
three-fourths of an inch from end of strap to the inside 
of lap. This loop is for the lace string to pass through. 

Rivet in center of folds and sew down two seams. 



44 HORSE PACKING 

The lacing for fastening straps to cincha to be one- 
half inch wide and 6 feet long; to be of best latigo 
leather. 

The conical facing to be provided with three ^-inch 
holes, two 6 inches apart and one-half inch from rod, 
the third in center and 1 inch from top. 

To fasten cincha and latigo strap with lacing, bring 
the ends together and pass through hole at center from 
underneath, allowing a loop of one-half inch to remain 
underneath, separate ends, and pass down through 
holes at end. 

Take the folds of latigo, ring up, and pass the right 
end of lacing through loop from right to left and into 
left-hand hole in cincha from above, pulling sufficient 
through to pass into the loop in center underneath, 
about 6 inches. 

Take the left-hand lacing and pass through loop 
from left to right; continue and finish as before. 
THE CORONA 

To be three thicknesses of blanket; the first or 
top blanket to be of first-class kersey material, free 
from shoddy or any impure material; to be of uniform 
color, gray preferred, and two thicknesses of fair 
quality, together equaling the strength of the first or 
top blanket. 

To be 2 inches wider and 10 inches shorter than 
the aparejo for which intended; to be faced through 
center from front to rear with kersey material con- 
trasting in color with body 14 inches wide; to be sewed 
down with one seam on edges and one seam through 
center to first thickness or top blanket. 

For border provide light canvas webbing of brown 
khaki color 3 inches wide, lapped under, underpinning 
all around, so as to leave a surface of 2 inches on top 
or outer surface of corona; to be sewed down with 2 
seams, one-fourth of an inch from the inner edge for 
the first and l^/z inches for the second. 

Center of one side of top blanket is provided with 
a numeral, 8 inches high, numbers running from 1 to 
50, sewed down to first thickness or top blanket. Good 
tanned sheepskin is required for the purpose. The two 
thicknesses of underpinning to be basted down to first 
thickness or top blanket'. 



PACKERS' BLINDS 45 



Sweat cloth to be of No. 10 28-inch cotton duck, 
one inch wider on sides and ends, lapped under to 
come flush with edge of corona all around; to be sewed 
with "T-stitch," the same under as well as over, three- 
fourths of an inch apart and three-fourths of an inch 
from edges. The stitch must lap on edge over all. 

PACKERS' BLINDS 

To make a cup blind take a piece of good, solid 
leather, 26 inches long and 6^4 inches wide; cut and 
shape to leave it 3 inches wide at ends and center and 
§Y-2. inches midway between ends and center. 

Now leave a space of five-eighths of an inch at 
center of cup and cut out a piece on each side, V shape, 
V/2. inches at edges; on the under side channel cut and 
sew together to form cup. 

Face edges with strap, three-fourths of an inch 
wide and long enough to come within 2 inches of ends; 
shave ends to slope and sew down with two seams. 

Punch two holes three-fourths of an inch apart and 
three-fourths of an inch from ends; cut out between 
for tail thongs to pass through. For thongs cut a 
strip of best latigo leather five-eighths of an inch wide 
and 5 feet long; shave ends to slope and pass through 
slit at ends. 

For end facings take a piece of leather 6->2 inches 
square, double and shape to end; punch two holes in 
center of double three-fourths of an inch apart and 
cut out between; soak well and slip thongs through 
slit; draw up snug and sew down with one seam on 
edges. Thongs to be sewed down through center 9 
inches from each end of blind, thongs to be lapped and 
riveted at end of sewing. 

For thumb piece take a piece of leather 12 inches 
long and 3^2 inches wide; punch and slit in 1 inch 
from edge and 3 inches from ends on each side. Lap 
the sides inward, so as to catch edges, and sew down 
with one seam. Draw it well together and cut ends, 
so as to shape in between straps; place in center of 
crown and sew down with one seam on edge, and rivet 
on each side of crown. 



46 HORSE PACKING 



THE PACK COVER OR MANTA 

The Pack Cover should be made of fairly heavy duck 
(No. 4 cotton duck) and should be when finished 6 feet 
square. 

It is used to gather into one pack a collection of 
small articles, to protect them from the elements in 
transit, from rough and frequent usage, and it adapts 
itself to any form or shape of equipment. Ordinarily 
it should be always used. A net of rope or rawhide 
is almost invariably used in South America. 

For equipment that is constantly in use and that 
must be easily accessible while on the march the kyacks 
or alforjas are better. 

These are nothing but great saddle bags of heavy 
canvas or leather and with inner and outer pockets, 
subdivisions, etc., to suit the individual taste, and pro- 
tected with overlapping flaps and buckled straps. Boxes, 
specially and strongly made for such purposes, are 
also recommended for such frequent access when on 
the trail. 

But for the main packing of staple equipment the 
pack cover is best. 

It. is also useful in emergencies to make a litter, or 
stretcher or travois. 

LASH ROPE WITH CINCH A AND HOOK 

Lash rope, standard size to be nine-sixteenths 
or one-half inch best hand-laid manila, 50 feet long, 
provided with an eye at one end to receive lacing of 
cincha, the opposite end to be well wrapped or seized. 

SLINC ROPES 

To be made of ^-inch best hand-laid manila, 
wrapped or seized at each end, and to be 30 feet long. 

LAIR ROPES 

To be made of ^-inch best hand-laid manila, 
to be provided with an eye at one end, the opposite 
end to be well wrapped or seized, and to be 30 feet 
long. 



HICKORY RIBS 47 



HICKORY RIBS 

To be of sound second growth straight-grained 
hickory, free of knots or other blemishes; 23 inches 
long, 1 inch wide, and three-eighths of an inch thick 
for 60-inch aparejos; 24 inches long for 62-inch apare- 
jos, and 22 inches long for 58-inch aparejos. 

In a half set of nine ribs, the third has a taper of 
8 inches at its upper end, thickness at end to be three- 
sixteenths of an inch; for the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, 
eighth, and ninth, successively, a gain of 2 inches in the 
taper is provided. 

On one side at bottom and 2 inches therefrom, 
numerals indicating the size of the aparejo, with num- 
ber of rib, will be stamped thereon, a hyphen or dash 
to be used in separating the number of ribs from the 
number of aparejo. 

In numbering the set of nine ribs, commence with 
the two that are not tapered; these to be numbered 
1 and 2 each. 

Two half sets of nine ribs each comprise a complete 
set for one aparejo. 

In lots of 50 sets, 25 to be 23 inches long; 13 to 
be 24 inches long, and 12 to be 22 inches long, 
respectively. 

HAY 

Hay to be free of joints, or what is known as 
"swamp" hay; that is, fine, soft, elastic hay, and for 
each aparejo 6 pounds will be considered sufficient. 



48 



HORSE PACKING 





Lash Rope with belly band and wooden hook. The 
wooden hook is the crook of a tree whittled down to 
form. 

Detail of wooden hook and method of fastening to 
belly band. 



LASH ROPE 



49 




Blackwall hitch on wooden hook to hold turns of 
hitch in place temporarily. 



50 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 1. 
TO FASTEN THE LATICO 

The Laiigo is the strap by which the girth or cincha 
of a saddle is made fast to a ring attached to the saddle 
or to the other end of a girth or cincha. 

In cinching, the Latigo is passed through the ring 
from the outside through to the inside. Then down 
to the ring in which the Latigo itself is permanently 
attached; through that from the inside to the outside 
and up. 

Then from the outside through the upper ring but 
passing under and out at the right of the ring. 

Bring the strap around to the left horizontally and 
then pass it to the left around back of the ring and 
then out through the ring to the front. 

The position of the Latigo is now shown in Fig. 1. 



TO FASTEN THE LATIGO 



51 




Fig. 2. 



Pass the end of the Latigo down through the hori- 
zontal loop of strap on the outside. Cinch and pull 
the end tightly. This will hold. 

The position of the Latigo is now as shown in Fig. 2. 



52 



HORSE PACKING 



TO LAIR UP A PACK 




Fig. 1. 



The cargo being weighed and balanced to lair up a pac\: 

Fig. /. The Packer spreads out a Pack Cover on the 
ground. On it he arranges the weighed cargo for 
one pack in such a manner that it shall be squared 
— as nearly as possible at the corners and ends — 
and its sides shall be diagonal to the sides of the 
pack cover. (Fig. I. suggests this process.) 



TO FASTEN THE LATIGO 53 




Fig. 2. 

Fig. 2. The Packer then folds one corner of the pack 
cover over the pack, drawing it smooth and as free 
as possible from folds, and then turning under the 
corner of the pack cover holds it in place with 
his knee. 

The position of the pack cover is now shown in 
Fig. 2. 



54 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 3. 



Fig. 3. The Packer then folds over the opposite corner 
of the pack cover, keeping it smooth as possible, 
turns under the corner and holds it down on the 
pack. If possible it should overlap the first corner 
of the pack cover. 

The position of the pack cover is now shown in 
Fig. 3. 



TO FASTEN THE LATIGO 



55 




Fig. 4. 



Fig. 4. Both of the other ends of the pack cover are 
now brought up and over the pack in the same 
manner as indicated for the first corners. The 
pack cover should be kept as smooth as possible 
and neat at the corners. 

The Packer now slips under the pack the lair rope, 
its length running with the long axis of the pack, 
or down the center if it be a square pack. 
He passes the end of the lair rope through the loop 
at the other end. (If no loop is already spliced 
in the lair rope a bowline will do as well.) 
The position of the pack cover and lair rope is now 
as shown in Fig. 4. 



56 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 5. 



Fig. 5. The Packer passes the end of the lair rope to 
the left making a complete turn around the pack 
at its upper end and then passes the end under 
the loop and out between the end of the pack and 
first turn. (With some packs it is also necessary 
to take a half turn with the lair rope on the other 
side of the pack around the standing part. Judge- 
ment alone can decide this.) 

The position of the pack cover and lair rope is now 
as shown in Fig. 5. 

Fig. 6. The Packer now brings the lair rope down 
on the other end of the pack making a half hitch 
around the pack. He passes the end of the rope 
around the pack, lengthwise, and following the 
first loop around the pack, back to the spliced 



TO FASTEN THE LATIGO 



57 



loop. (The same remark applies as to the neces- 
sity of taking a half turn around the standing part 
on the back of the pack. If so a half hitch cannot 




Fig. 6. 
be used but the lair rope must be followed round, 
turn by turn.) 

The position of the pack cover and lair rope is 
now as shown in Fig. 6. 



58 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 7. 



Fig. 7. The Packer brings out the end of the lair rope 
a little to one side of the loop and takes a half 
turn around the first transverse rope (first trans- 
verse turn shown in Fig. 5) in such a manner that 
the lair rope leads forward to the second trans- 
verse turn (second transverse turn shown in Fig. 6.) 
The Packer now cinches the pack — if he has not 
kept the lair rope taut as he went — and makes fast 
to the second transverse turn. 

The pack and lair rope are now as shown in Fig. 7. 
Note. — A slip knot is generally amply secure for 
the lair rope, it can be undone in rainy weather 
when wet. A hard knot is exceptional in any of 
the steps or phases of pack transportation, and 
only when there is a special reason therefor. 



TO FASTEN THE LATIGO 



59 




Fig. 8. 



Fig. 8. If a longer pack is required it should be laired 
up as just described but with 3 transverse turns 
instead of 2. 
It is shown in Fig. 8. 



60 HORSE PACKING 



SLINCINC THE CARGO 

Normally two men make the loads, sling the cargo 
and throw the hitch. All of the operations can be done 
by one man acting entirely alone as described else- 
where. 

This is described for two packers, No. I and No. 2 
as they are designated for convenience. No. 1 is in 
charge. He takes position on the near side of the 
mule while No. 2 takes position on the off side and 
opposite the aparejo. 



The loads being balanced, to sling cargos 

Fig. I. No. I takes the sling rope, forms a bight with 
the apex at about the middle of the rope. 
He then throws it across the aparejo to No. 2; 
he then sees that the two parts on his side are 
properly separated according to the size of the 
loads. 

No. 2 adjusts the bight on the far side according 
to the size or shape of the load (making a larger 



SLINGING THE CARGO 



61 




Fi s- 1 - 

bight, or passing back some of the bight if it is 
too large or hangs too low. 

The position of the sling rope is now as indicated 
in Fig. 1. 
Fig. 2. No. I lifts the one load to the ridge of the 
aparejo where he balances it until he hears No. 2 
call: 
"Ease away." 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2. 
At this No. / lets go and picks up the second load. 
No. 2 balances the load on the ridge of the aparejo 
with one hand while with the other he lifts the 
bight of the sling rope and lifts it up and against 
the load forming a sling. He holds the load 
slightly balanced on the off side of the aparejo. 
The position of the sling and load is now as indi- 
cated in Fig. 2. 



SLINGING THE CARGO 



63 




Fig. 3. 

Fig. 3. No. 1 now lifts the second load into position 
as high on the aparejo as he conveniently can. He 
commands: 
"Rope." 

No. 2 lifts the bight and pushes it towards him. 
No. I holds his load in place an instant with his 
hand or shoulder (or if the load be too heavy or 



64 HORSE PACKING 

awkward by balancing it a second on top of the 
mule while No. 2 holds the full weight from his 
side) and seizes the forward free end of the sling 
rope. 

This rope No. / passes through the bight passed 
him — or as it is being held for him — by No. 2. 
Holding this one end taut he seizes the rear end 
of the sling rope and brings the two ends together. 
The loads now rest in their slings with slight effort 
while No. 1 ties the two ends in a slip knot. 
The position of the cargo and sling rope and the 
duty of No. 2 is now as indicated in Fig. 3. 



Fig. 4. The sling should be tightened so that both 

loads — if they are the ordinary, normal loads — ride 

rather high, that is, the lower inside angles or 

sides should about meet on the ridge or the center 

of the aparejo. 

The loads should be perfectly balanced with an 

even weight or strain on each side. 

A little lifting and shifting, without tightening or 

loosening the sling rope is often necessary. Actual 

practice alone can determine this point. It is No. f 

who takes charge of this. 



SLINGING THE CARGO 



65 




Fig. 4. 
If he wishes to adjust, he commands: 
"Brake." 

At this No. 2 lifts the off load and assists in placing 
the loads according to the suggestions of No. I. 
The cargo and sling rope are now in the position as 
indicated in Fig. 4. 



66 HORSE PACKING 



THE ONE-MAN CARGO SLING 



The pacfe being balanced, to sling the cargo with but one packer: 

Fig. I. The Packer first loops the lash rope over the 
sobre-jalma in such a manner that one bight falls 
on the off side and half on the sobre-jalma 
forward and the free end comes back across the 
mule's neck to the near side again. 
The second and rear bight passes in a like manner 
across the rear of the sobre-jalma with the free 
end returning and lying across the mule's rump. 



ONE-MAN CARGO SLING 



67 




Fig. 1. 
The middle section between both bights is caught 
under both corners of the sobre-jalma on the near 
side. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated 
in Fig. /. 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2. 
Fig. 2. The Packer now forms a bight with the sling rope 
and passes it across the sobre-jalma in the same 
manner as though it was to be laid with the help 
of another man. 

The position of the lash and sling ropes is now as 
indicated in Fig. 2. 



ONE-MAN CARGO SLING 



69 




Fig. 3. 
Fig. 3. The Packer now lifts the one load and balances 
it on the top of the sobre-jalma. (Fig. 3.) 
Holding it in place with the left hand he takes the 
free end of the lash rope that lies to the rear and 
throws it forward and over the load. 
Balancing the load for a second now with his right 



70 HORSE PACKING 

hand he takes the free end of the lash rope that lies 
forward and throws it to the rear and over the 
load. 

He now reaches and brings forward the free end of 
the rear lash rope, passing it well under the sobre- 
jalma, and brings it forward and up from under the 
sobre-jalma. 

Holding both free ends in one hand, he takes up 
slack on both bights until the load lies lightly in 
them. He determines this by gently working the 
load off the middle ridge of the sobre-jalma. so that 
it falls of its own weight over on the off side. It 
should remain well up. 

The Packer now ties the two free ends in a slip-knot. 
The position of the load and lash rope is now as 
indicated in Fig. 3, except that the load is still bal- 
anced at the moment in the diagram and has not 
settled into the bights or slings. 

Fig. 4. The Packer now passes to the off side of the 
mule and throws the bight of the sling rope back 
across the off side load over to the rear side. 



ONE-MAN CARGO SLING 



71 




Fig. 4. 

The position of the lash and sling ropes is now as 
indicated in Fig. 4. 
Fig. 5. Passing to the near side again the Packer now 
lifts the near load into position as described for 
slinging cargo with two men. He takes the free 



72 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 5. 
end of the forward part of the sling rope, passes 
it up and through the bight in the sling rope and 
makes both ends of the sling rope fast with a slip 
knot. 

The position of the lash rope, sling rope and cargo 
is now as indicated in Fig. 5. 



ONE-MAN CARGO SLING 



73 




Fig. 6 
Fig. 6. The Packer casts off the lash rope and the cargo 
is now slung. The position of the cargo and sling 
is now indicated in Fig. 6. 

The cargo is worked and adjusted into position 
now in the same manner as described for two men, 
except, of course, that the one man passes from 
side to side as he lifts and tests the cargo adjust- 
ment 



74 



HORSE PACKING 




DOUBLE SLINC 

This is used for long packs. 

The sling rope is laid as for the ordinary sling ex- 
cept that the bight is spread as far apart as possible. 

The ends of the sling are tied separately to the for- 
ward and rear parts of the sling rope as shown in the 
diagram. 



CROSS SLING 



75 



CROSS SLINC 

This sling is used when a Top Load is to be packed. 




jr-^ 



Fig. 1. 

The pacfys being balanced to load them rvith the Cross Sling: 

Fig. /. No. 1. takes the sling rope at the middle and 
throws both ends across the mule to No. 2. No. / 
holds sufficient of the bight of the sling rope so 
that it will come about to the top of the off load. 
No. 2 arranges the ends thrown to him at the proper 
distance for the pack and dropping to the ground 
parallel with the sides of the sobre-jalma. He then 
lifts the off pack in place, holds it there while he 
brings up the ends of the two ropes and throws 
them, over the off pack, back to No. /. 
The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fi B . I. 



76' 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2. 



Fig. 2. No. I now lifts the bight and hands it to No. 2 
who holds it against his pack. 

No. 1 now lifts his near pack in place on the two 
ropes passed back to him by No. 2. He brings the 
forward end of the sling rope through the bight of 
rope held by No. 2 for him. He then brings up the 
rear end of the sling rope and ties it with the 
forward end. 

The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



CROSS SLING 



77 




Fig. 3. 

Fig. 3. The sling is now drawn taut and the packs 
shifted into position. In order to more clearly 
show the effect of this sling, the diagram of Fig. 3 
has been given a slightly more realistic perspec- 
tive. It shows the manner in which the top load 
may be placed without interference with the sling 
ropes. 

Note. — A top load should always bear or rest evenly on the side 
pacl(s. 



78 HORSE PACKING 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 

This hitch is the most important hitch in pack ani- 
mal transportation. With trifling variations of detail, 
it is found all over the United States as far as the 
Arctic Circle and throughout Central and South Amer- 
ica wherever mules or burros are used for packing. 
It is the one best all-around hitch. To avoid confusion 
in the diagrams, the sling ropes are not shown. 



The Load Being Balanced and Slung to Throw the Single 
Diamond Hitch 

Fig. I. The plan of the mule and the pack saddle, as if 
one were looking down upon it, ready to receive 
the cargo. It is drawn in an arbitrary manner to 
simplify the succession of phases as the hitch 
progresses. 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 



79 




Fig. 1. 



80 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2. 
Fig. 2. No. 2 passes the cincha and hook under the 
belly of the mule to No. I who grasps the hook. 
No. 2 then reserves a good sized bight next to the 
cincha of the lash rope, throws the free part 
forward across the mule's neck, allowing the 
free end of the lash rope to fall down still on his, 
the off side. 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 81 



No. 2 now arranges the rear bight so that it will 
lie on the rear part of the off load, drop in be- 
tween the cargoes, along the backbone of the 
aparejo. No. / assists from his side in so laying 
the lash rope and seeing that it passes over and 
rests on the forward part of the near load. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. No. 2 now takes the bight next to the cincha 
(the standing part of the rope) and throws across 
to No. 1 with a twist of the wrist. 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 3. 

No. / seizes it and engages the standing part of the 
bight with the hook of the cincha on his side. He 
then pulls up the slack lightly. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 3. 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 



83 




Fig. 4. 

Fig. 4. No. I then throws his part of the bight forward, 
No. 2 at the same time on the off side assisting and 
throwing the bight forward and over the standing 
part of the lash rope. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 4. 



84 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 5. No. 2 carries the bight or loop forward of the 
off cargo so that it will fall forward and around the 
off load and then brings the bight back and under 
the standing part of the lash rope. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 5. 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 



85 




Fig. 6. 

Fig. 6. No. 2 loops this bight over and down the rear 
of the off cargo and under the rear corner of the 
sobre-jalma. He then brings the rope of the loop 
forward, under the sobre-jalma and up and out of 
its forward corner. 



86 HORSE PACKING 



No. 2 then sees that the lash rope falls securely 
over the forward part of the off cargo and that 
its loop at the standing part is in or between the 
center on the load. He takes up slack as he goes 
but without hauling tight. 
No. 2 then calls: 

" Ta\e." 

At this No. 1 takes up the last rope on his side 
where it passes out under the standing part at the 
center of the load and forms a bight that will loop 
around the near forward corner of the cargo. 
No. 1 then passes the free end of the lash rope over 
the standing part and under the running part at or 
near the center of the cargo. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 6. 



Fig. 7. No. / now takes the forward loop he has just 
made and passes it over the near forward corner 
of the cargo and down under the near forward cor- 
ner of the sobre-jalma. 

No. I now passes the loop along to the rear, bring- 
ing it up and around the near rear corner of the 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 87 




Fig. 7 

sobre-jalma and cargo, lightly taking up the slack. 
No. 1 then calls: 
"Take" 

and throws the free end of the lash rope over and 
across the rear of the mule to No. 2. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 7. 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 8 
Fig. 8. No. 2 now grasps the free end of the lashrope 
thrown him and passes it under the sobre-jalma 
and forward where he throws it across the mule's 
neck. 

The hitch is now ready to tighten. To indicate 
this, No. 2 calls: 
"Ready." 

At this No. I commands: 
"Cinch." 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 89 

At the same time he hauls taut on the running 
part of the lash rope where it comes out of the 
hook. 

No. 2 on his side also grasps the same rope and 
hauls. 

(Note. — This hauling is done in the most conveni- 
ent way, care being taken to bring the strain on 
the rope and not to merely push and haul the ani- 
mal off his balance.) 

No. / and No. 2 working together, each on his own 
side of the animal, ta^e ud the slack and haul 
tight in similar manner to that in which they 
progressed as they made the hitch. 
No. 2 when he again reaches the forward end of 
the off load and the hitch is tight, calls: 
"Tal(e it all." 

At the same time throwing the free end with all 
the slack across the top of the load to No. /. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 8. 



90 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 9 



Fig. 9. This shows the Single Diamond Hitch tightened 
and tied. The diamond by which it gets its name 
appears, distinctly. There are various methods of 
making fast, a few turns and a slip knot being 
most often used. 



SINGLE DIAMOND HITCH 91 



Fig. fO. This shows the near and off side views of the 
Single Diamond Hitch. 

To avoid confusion in the diagrams the sling ropes are not shown. 




92 HORSE PACKING 



DOUBLE DIAMOND HITCH 

This hitch is used when there is a riding or striding 
load placed above the balanced load; especially if the 
riding load be a keg:, a box or some awkward package. 
The double diamond hitch is best when the nature of the 
cargo requires more binding points than are possible 
with the more open single diamond hitch. 

For a riding load the special Cross Sling must be 
used. (See page 75.) 

To avoid confusion in the diagrams the sling ropes are not 
shown. 



The load being balanced and slung to throw the double diamond 
hitch: 

Fig. I. The near Packer, No. /, throws the lash rope 
across the cargo, with the free end toward the mule's 
head and with a long loop at the rear. A shorter 



DOUBLE DIAMOND HITCH 




Fig. 1 

loop is run forward on the near side of the cargo 
and No. I then passes the hoofy end of the cincha under- 
neath the mule to No. 2, who grasps it at the com- 
mand: 
"Take." 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. I. 



u 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2 

Fig. 2. No. I now throws the forward loop across the 
cargo in such a manner that the standing part of the loop 
comes underneath at the same time giving the 
command: 
"Ready." 

No. 2 grasps the loop and twists it one full turn to the 
left as indicated by the dotted line and arrows 
(Fig. 2) and bringing the center of the twist at the 
apex of the riding load. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 2, (except that the twist has not yet been made). 



DOUBLE DIAMOND HITCH 



9fr 




Fig. 3. No. 2 then slips the loop over the hook and calls: 
"Heave." 

No. I takes in the useless slack of the loop but with- 
out hauling the rope tight; it should lie loose but 
without danger of slipping off the riding load. 
The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 

Fig. 3r 



96 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 4 



Fig. 4 No. I now passes a portion of the rear loop for- 
ward and through the standing part of the lash rope, 
taking it forward and over the near forward corner of 
the cargo, down and under the near forward corner 
of the sobre-jalma. It will fall easily inside the 
sobre-jalma and under the near rear corner of the 
sobre-jalma. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 4. 



DOUBLE DIAMOND HITCH 



97 




Fig. 5 



Fig. 5. No. / then takes the end of the lash rope and 
passes it over and down between the two central 
ropes at a point between the riding load and the 
near side load. He then commands: 
"Ready" 

and throws the lash rope across the rear of the 
mule to No. 2. 

The position of the lash rope is now indicated by 
Fig. 5. 



98 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 6 



Fig. 6. No. 2 grasps the end of the rope and passes it 
under and up between the two central ropes and pre- 
pares to loop it under the off rear corner of the 
sobre-jalma. 

Both No. 1 and No. 2 assist each other at this point 
in adjusting the rear loop that is to secure the 
riding load. The point for this rope to bind varies 
according to the nature of the riding load. It must 
bind at a place where it will not slip forward, or up 
or in any direction; with a soft sack there is no diffi- 
culty, but with a hard keg or box some precision 
is needed. 

(In the diagrams only the clearness of following 
the rope has been kept in view and the keg more 
easily visualizes the riding- load.") 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated by 
Fig. 6. 



DOUBLE DIAMOND HITCH 



99 




Fig. 7 



Fig. 7. No. 2 passes the rope under the off near corner 
of the sobre-jalma, forward and outside of the cincha 
and hook, under the off forward corner of the 
sobre-jalma and passes it over and doron through the 
two central ropes at a point between the riding 
load and the side load. 
He then calls: 
"Take' 

and throws the end of the rope over the mule's 
neck to No. 1 . 
The lash rope at this point is as indicated in Fig. 7. 



100 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 8 



Fig. 8. No. f grasps the rope and passes it under and up 
through the two central ropes at a point half-way 
between the riding load and the side load, and drops 
the end on the ground. The lash rope must now be 
tightened. 
The lash rope at this point is as indicated in Fig. 8. 



DOUBLE DIAMOND HITCH 



101 



Fig. 9. No. I commands : 
"Cinch." 

At this command No. 2 grasps the running part of 
the two central ropes (indicated by the arrow, 
Fig. 8), and, by lifting on it, tightens the cincha. 




At the same time No. I grasps the same rope on his 
side and, by throwing his weight down on it, hauls 
in the slack made by No. 2. 

No. I holds the slack taken in and follows the lash 
rope along as in making the original hitch, taking 
in all the slack he can secure by his strength. 
As he reaches the rear loop on the hitch, No. 2 
stands read}' at the rear on the off side and takes 
the slack passed to him without losing the tension. 
No. 2 then follows the hitch around in the same 
manner taking in all the slack possible. As he 
reaches the forward off side he passes the final 
slack across the mule's neck to No. I. No. I takes 
it without losing tension. 

The position on the lash rope is now indicated by 
Fit. 9. 



10J 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 10. 



Fig. 10. No. 1 takes the slack, without losing tension, 
and passes it under the near forward corner of 
the sobre-jalma, on to the rear under and outside 
of the cincha, up around the near rear corner 6i 
the sobre-jalma and throws it over and across the 
load calling to No. 2: 
"Ta\e it all" 

No. 2 seizes the rope bringing the end forward of 
the two central ropes, passing it under and to the 
rear of them and bringing it forward again in a 
single turn or half hitch. He passes it around the 
off forward lashing, throws his weight into it in a 
final pull and makes it fast. The load is now se- 
cured by the Double Diamond Hitch. 
The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 10. 



DOUBLE DIAMOND HITCH 103 

As familiarity with the double diamond is acquired 
there will be many little short cuts in throwing the 
rope that will appear. For instance, in Fig. 7 it is 
apparent that the quickest way for No. 2 when he re- 
ceives the rope at the off-side rear, is to pass it all under 
both of the central ropes and letting the end fall some- 
where forward; then to pull out from between the two 
central ropes a bight or loop that can be cast with a 
rapid motion over both the forward and rear corners 
of the load and sobre-ialma. 

The point aimed at by these diagrams is perfect 
lucidity and, in explaining, the absolute sequence of the 
progressive movements. Whatever short cuts there are, 
are for each individual packer and do not change the 
order of operations. The commands and responses are 
merely to time the movements without waste. 



104 HORSE PACKING 



WIMAN ONE-MAN HITCH 

The best and simplest of the one-man hitches; it 
can be thrown by one man without assistance. 

(See method of slinging cargo for one man..) 

To avoid confusion in the diagrams the sling ropes are not shown. 



The load being balanced and slung to throw the Wiman One-Man 
Hitch: 

Fig. I. Standing on the near side of the mule the Packer 
doubles the lash rope, laying the double rope be- 
tween the two loads with the loop or bight lying to the 
rear . 

The doubled rope is laid between the loads in such 
a manner that the end or running part lies over and on 
top of the standing part of the lash rope. (Fig. I.) 



WIMAN ONE-MAN HITCH 



105 




The doubled rope comes out between the loads and 

falls on the near side of the mule's neck. 

The standing part of the lash rope with the cincha 

trails to the rear on the near side, and is grasped 

by the packer 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 



106 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2 

Fig. 2. The Packer throws the cincha across the load and, 
reaching under the mule's belly, catches the cincha 
hook and brings it up on the near side. 
The position of the lash rope is now as indicated 
in Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. The Packer engages the lash rope in a half- 
hitch on the cincha hook, keeping the lash rope 
fairly taut on the cargo. 



WIMAN ONE-MAN HITCH 



107 




Fig. 3 



The free end of the half-hitch must be on the inside, 

i. e., between the standing part of the lash rope and 

the mule, or sobre-jalma (see Fig. 3). 

He then carries the bight of the lash rope forward 

and loops it over the forward near corner of the 

sobre-jalma and on up over the forward near corner 

of the near load. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated 

in Fig. 3, 



108 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 4 



Fig. 4. The Packer now passes along the near side to 
the rear of the mule where he takes up the bight 
of the lash rope that comes out between the two 
loads. 

The right half of the bight he prepares to carry 
forward on the off side at the same time dropping 
the left of the bight under the rear off corner of 
the sobre-jalma. 

The position of the lash rope is now indicated in 
Fig. 4. 



WIMAN ONE-MAN HITCH 



109 




Fig. 5. The Packer loops the right half of the bight 
over the side load and down under the forward off 
corner of the sobre-jalma, drawing it moderately 
taut. 

He then passes to the rear along the off side ad- 
justing the bight along the outside of the cincha and 
keeping it taut under the off rear corner of the 
sobre-jalma. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 5. 



110 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 6 



Fig. 6. The Packer now passes in rear of the mule and 
takes the free end of the lash rope, bringing it 
to the rear and over the standing part that lies 
across the cargo from the cincha ring to hook. 
He brings this free end over and down, passing 
it under the rear near corner of the sobre-jalma. 
Then he brings the end forward on the near side 
and under the cincha hook, letting the free end fall 
forward. It is now time to cinch the cargo. 
The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 6. 



WIMAN ONE-MAN HITCH 



111 



Fig. 7. To cinch the cargo the Packer begins with the 
lash rope that crosses the load from the ring to the 
hook. He sees that this lies straight across the 
centre of the cargo. Then he grasps the lash rope 
after it has passed around the hook and tightens it 
with all his strength. 




Fig. 7 



Holding it taut he proceeds to work along the lash 
rope in the same order in which he first threw 
the hitch, heaving with all his strength and holding 
taut the slack so taken. 

When he has again reached the free end the Packer 
brings it over and down under the forward corner 
of the sobre-jalma and passes it. still keeping it 
taut, to the rear outside of the cincha or hook. 
The position of the lash rope, cinched, is now as 
indicated in Fig. 7. 



112 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 8 



Fig. 8. These are in reality frapping turns. They are 
lacings that bind the hitch with great rigidity on 
each side. 

The Packer brings the free end of the rope up and 
forward over all of the ropes. The rope is passed 
over ihe near forward part that binds on the load, 
and then back to the rear part that binds on the 
load where a half turn is taken that leads up and 
over the load (see detail in Fig. 8). 
The packer now goes to the farther side of the 
mule where the free end of the lash rope is passed 
under the central part, thence to the rear and around 
the part that binds on the load. Then forward on 
the off side and passed around the part that binds 
the load there. 

The position of the lash rope is now indicated in 
Fig. 8. 



WIMAN ONE-MAN HITCH 



113 



Fig. 9. The lacings just described are now cinched. 
(While they are being made they should be kept 
fairly taut.) 




Fig. 9 
They are cinched by going over them, hauling each 
taut in turn and finally securing by any kind of 
knot the packer may fancy. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 9. 

The kind of knot used to secure a hitch is a matter 
of individual preference, though it also depends on 
the character of the lash rope used. A single bow- 
knot, or a reef slip-knot as it is sometimes called, 
is best when it can be used, for ease of casting off 
is a necessary factor. A rawhide lash rope is very 
perverse. If a rope can be jammed in one of its 
own bearings the result is most convenient — or 
rather a combination of simple knot and then a 
jam. 

It must be borne in mind that to preserve the 
clearness of the diagrams many factors have been 
sacrificed. The ropes that bear directly on the 
load and that radiate from the common center (see 
Fig. 7) should always pass over the front and rear 
of the side loads at approximately the center of 
pack. This is true of all hitches. 



114 HORSE PACKING 



POLE HITCH 

A one or two-man hitch. 

The Pole Hitch lashes the two side packs to each 
other with great strength, but at the same time does 
not compress the loads on the pack mule. It will be 
noted that no cincha is used and that the lash rope 
does not pass under the belly of the animal. It is used 
for lashing on the poles of a travois or of a litter. 

It is a very simple hitch, being nothing but a half- 
hitch taken on each side and around the pack, and then 
laced for additional strain. 

One packer can throw it if necessary. 

To avoid confusion in the diagrams the sling ropes are not shown. 
Fig. 2. 



POLE HITCH 



115 




Fig. 1 



The pac\s being slung to throw the Pole Hitch: 

Fig. I. No. I throws the lash rope (without the cincha, 
it having been removed first) across the pack so 
that the middle of the rope rests in the centre of 
the packs. He commands 
"Ta\e." 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 1. 
No. 2 seizes his half of the rope. 



116 



HORSE PACKING 




(Note. — Both No. I and No. 2. in actual practice 
throw the hitch simultaneously as the movements 
for the hitch on the near and off sides of the mule 
are identical. But for simplicity of description and 
diagrams it will be explained as though consecutive 
operations — or as though it was being thrown by 
but one man acting as No. / and also a No. 2 acting 
at the same time. 



Fig. 2. 



No. 1 now passes his rope to the right, around the 

upper right hand corner of the pack, on around 

under the sobre-jalma and up and around the upper 

left hand corner of the pack. 

He passes the end of the rope over and down under 

the standing part. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 

Fig. 2. 



POLE HITCH 



117 




Fig. 3. No. I now lifts the bight of the lash rope from 
below the center of the sobre-jalma and passes the 
end of the rope down under and through the bight, 
bringing the end up and outside the bight. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 3. 



118 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 4 



Fig. 4. No. 2, when the rope was thrown to him (as in 
Fig. f) performs on his side exactly the same opera- 
tions as have been just described for No. I and 
prepares to pass the end of the rope under and 
through the bight below the sobre-jalma. It will 
be observed that here are two half-hitches, one on 
either side of the pack mule. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 4. 



POLE HITCH 



119 




Fig. 5. 



Fig. 5. No. f now throws the end of his rope across 
the packs at the same time calling: 
"Take." 

No. 2 at the same time throws his end of the rope 
across to No. 1 calling: 
"Take." 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 5. 



120 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 6. 



Fig. 6. The hitch is now ready to tighten. 

No. 1 holding the end of the rope thrown him so 

as to take and keep any slack, commands: 

"Cinch." 

At this No. 2 takes up the slack on his side going 

over the hitch from the beginning and taking up 

the slack. No. I takes and holds such slack. 

No. 2 calls: 

I ie. 

No. I makes his rope fast. 

No. 2 then holds the rope passed to him in such a 
way as to take up and hold all slack gathered. 
No. I proceeds to take up slack as did No. 2. 
As the last slack is taken he calls: 

1 ie. 
and No. 2 makes his rope fast. 
The position of the lash rope is shown in Fig. 6 at 
having been cinched but not tied. 



POLE HITCH 



121 




Fig. 7. 



Fig. 7. In Fig. 7 the Pole Hitch is shown complete. 

The lacings on the side bring a great compressing 
strain. While this diagram does, of necessity, 
appear to illustrate a somewhat complicated hitch, 
yet the Pole Hitch is one of the simplest and most 
easily tied. 

The Pole Hitch is used for lashing the poles of a 
Travois to the animal; this is its use. 



122 



HORSE PACKING 





Sawbuck Saddle 



The Sat» Buc\ Saddle is a wooden frame as shown in 
the above illustration, made of some hard, tough wood. 
It is placed above the ordinary saddle blankets and 
held in place by the latigo cinch on girth as shown in 
second illustration below. It is a small frame no larger 
than is necessary to give firm support to the cross 
pieces at each end. 

With the Saw Buck it is easier for one man to sling 
the cargo. 



SAW-BUCK SLING 



123 




Sawbuck Saddle — In place 



The only function it performs is to aid in slinging 
the cargo. It is always the hitch that holds the cargo 
firmly to the mule. The sling merely holds it in posi 
tion while the hitch is thrown. 



124 HORSE PACKING 







Sawbuck Saddle 



A saw buck saddle and gear for army or trail use. 



SAW-BUCK SLING 



125 




Fig. 1 



SAW BUCK SLINC 
The mule being equipped with the Saw Buc\ to sling the load: 
Fig. I. The Packer makes a clove hitch at the centre 
of the sling rope and slips it over the forward forks 
of the saw buck. He throws that portion of the 
sling rope that comes naturally out at the farther 
side over to the off side, allowing that end of the 
sling rope that comes naturally out on the near 
side to remain there. 

He then takes the rope that is on the near side 
and loops it over the off crotch of the rear saw 
buck from rear forward. He allows the end to 
drop down underneath the bight thus formed along 
the saddle. 

This bight is to receive the side pack and should 
be of sufficient size. 

The packer then makes a similar bight in a similar 
way on the off side. 

The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. /. 



126 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2. Being now on the off side the packer picks up the 
off pack and lifts it into the off bight, and brings the 
load as high toward the saw buck as possible. He 
takes up the slack of the bight so that the rope 
holds the pack in position as tightly as possible. 
The packer now brings up the end of the rope 
from under the off pack, taking one full turn 
around the bight that holds the pack in position. 
This turn is taken at the centre of the bight. 
He now makes a bowline in the end of the off 
sling rope in such a way, or place, that when 
cinched it will come about in the centre of the 
load between the packs. 

The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



SAW-BUCK SADDLE 



127 




Fig. 3. The packer now passes to the near side where 
he slings the near side pack in the same manner 
as just prescribed for the off side pack. In this 
case he does not make a bowline. 
He passes the end of the near sling rope (after a 
full turn around the near bight at the centre of 
the sling) through the bight of the bowline on 
top of the load and heaves hard. He then makes 
fast and the load is slung ready for the hitch. 
The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 3. 



128 



HORSE PACKING 



NO. 2 SAW BUCK SLING 



This is another method of slinging on a saw buck 
saddle and is adapted, as the diagrams show, to such 
loads as are longer and more awkward. 

The mule being equipped with the saw bud? saddle to sling the 
load. 

Fig. 1. The Packer makes a clove hitch at the centre 
of the sling rope and slips it over the forward 
forks of the saw buck allowing the one end to drop 




Fig. 1 

naturally down on the near side and the other he 
throws across the mule's neck to the far side. 
The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 1. 



SAW-BUCK SADDLE 



129 




^^^ 



Fig. 2 



Fig. 2. The packer lifts the near load as high up into 
position as possible and holds it into place (with 
his shoulder) while he slips the near rope in a loop 
around the forward end of the pack. 
He then takes a half-hitch around the near arm of 
the fork. 

He then passes the sling rope on over the rear 
of the saw buck and throws it into the off crotch 
The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 2. 



130 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 3. The packer now forms a loop with the end 
of the sling rope that falls from the crotch of the 
rear fork and places the rear end of the pack in 
the loop so formed. 

He then brings up the end, takes a turn around 
the near rear fork and makes fast after bringing 
the pack as high on the saddle as possible. 
The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 3. 



SAW-BUCK SLING 



131 




Fig. 4. The packer now passes around to the off side 
and slings the off pack in exactly the same manner 
as he slung the near pack. 

The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 4. 



132 HORSE PACKING 



CROSS-TREE HITCH 

A One-Man Hitch 

This is a single-diamond and is generally used on 
the saw buck saddle. It is one of the few hitches that 
can be thrown as easily by one man as by two. 

To avoid confusion in the diagrams the sling ropes are noi shotan. 

This hitch is shown as thrown using the sobre-jalma. 
A sobre-jalma is not essential where the Saw Buck is 
used, but it adds to the convenience. 



CROSS-TREE HITCH 



133 




Fig. 1 
The pacfe being slung to throw the Cross-Tree Hitch: 



F}g. I. The Packer throws the cincha and lash rope 
across the packs bringing the hook end of the 
cincha up under the belly of the mule and on the 
near side. 

He engages the lash rope under the hook, draws 
up the slack and throws a fair sized bight of the 
rope across the packs. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. /. 



134 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2 



Fig. 2. The packer now passes this bight under and for- 
ward of the standing rope, bringing it back over 
the standing rope (as indicated by the arrows in 
Fig. 1 ) preparing to make one complete turn around 
the standing rope with the bight. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



CROSS-TREE HITCH 



135 




Fig. 3. 



Fig. 3. The packer now passes the bight once again 
under and forward of the standing rope, thereby 
completing one full turn of the bight around the 
standing rope. The size of the bight forward of 
the standing rope varies and depends upon the 
shape and size of the load. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 3, 



136 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 4. The packer now throws the free portion of the 
lash rope over the mule in rear of the packs. 
He passes around to the off side bringing the rope 
now on the off side over and down around the rear 
upper corner of the off load then down and under 
the sobre-jalma. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 



CROSS-TREE HITCH 



137 




Fig. 5. The packer now passes the rope forward and 
under the corner of the sobre-jalma but outside 
the cincha, up and around the upper forward corner 
of the off pack and thence through the bight lying on 
top of the packs. 

He then throws the rope across the mule's neck 
over to the near side. 

He now passes to the near side and brings the 
rope down over the forward corner of the near 
pack and under the corner of the sobre-jalma. 
The position of the rope is now as shown in Fig. 5. 



138 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 6. 

Fig. 6. The packer now brings the rope to the rear 
under the sobre-jalma, but outside of the cincha, 
then up over the near corner of the near pack and 
through that portion of the standing rope enclosed 
within the bight. 

The hitch is now ready to cinch and tie. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 6, 



CROSS-TREE HITCH 



13.9 




Fig. 7. 



Fig. 7. The packer now cinches the hitch in the usual 
manner, following the slack in the original turns 
and taking it in. 

When it has been taken (up to the point shown in 
Fig. 6) he passes with the rope to the off side in 
rear of the mule, bringing the rope once more 
down around the rear of the off pack and forward 
under the sobre-jalma and outside the cincha, and 
makes fast as usual. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 7, 



140 HORSE PACKING 



THE SQUAW HITCH 
(Also known as the Cross-Tree Hitch) 

This is one of the earliest of "one-man hitches" and 
has been used by the American Indians for centuries. 
As the squaws do the packing the early frontiersmen 
gave it the name "squaw hitch." It is a very simple 
hitch and in very general use in small one-man pros- 
pecting outfits. It is not to be compared with any 
of the diamond hitches. The Wiman one-man hitch 
is much more scientific in its adjustment and is invaria- 
bly to be preferred. 

To avoid confusion in the diagrams the sling ropes are not shown. 



The load being balanced and slung to throw the squaw hitch: 

Fig. /. The packer throws the cincha across the cargo 
and reaching under the mule's belly catches the 
hook end of the cincha bringing it through and up 
into position on the near side. 

He then engages the lash rope that falls from 
the cargo in such a manner that the free end of the 
lash rope leaves the hook on the outside (See 
Fig. I). He adjust the cincha and throws a light 
strain on the rope to hold it in position. 
With the free or running portion of the lash rope 



SQUAW HITCH 



141 




he forms a bight to the rear of the taut standing part, 

and then passes the bight under and forward of the 

standing part in the center between the two side 

loads. 

The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 

Fig. /. 



142 HORSE PACKING 



Fig. 2. The packer then pulls the free end of the bight 
all the way through the standing part. 
Holding taut the free or running part of the lash 
rope he passes to the rear of the mule over to the 
off side. He brings the rope down over the rear 
corner of the off side of the load and carries it 
forward underneath the rear corner of the load. 
(And under, also the rear corner of the sobre-jalma 
if there is one used.) 

He then carries the lash rope forward outside 
of the cincha or standing part of the rope 
and loops it around the off forward corner of the 
load and then on over the center of the cargo 
over the standing part of the lash rope and under 
the part of the rope that forms the off rear loop. 
(See Fig. 2.) 



SQUAW HITCH 



143 




Fig. 2. 

Keeping- the rope moderately taut the packer now 
passes from the off side of the mule, around by the 
rear to the near side. 

The position of the sling rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



144 HORSE PACKING 



Fig. 3. The packer now goes to the near forward cor- 
ner of the load passing the free portion of the lash 
rope over the ropes and cargo and then down over 
the near forward corner of the load. This brings 
the strain on top of the center of the cargo by- 
engaging the lash rope with the angle of the 
loop that lashes the off, side load in place. (See 
Fig. 3.) 

In the same manner as on the off side, he brings 
the lash rope down and outside of ropes and cincha 
passing to the rear where he loops the lash rope 
up and around the near rear corner of the load. 
The packer then passes the free end of the lash 
rope over all parts and down into the angle formed 
by the two forward lashings. Passing the end 
down into this he brings it out and up (passing 
underneath all ropes as he does so) through the 
angle formed by the two rear lashings. 
The hitch is now ready to cinch. 
The position of the lash rope is now as indicated in 
Fig. 3. 



SQUAW HITCH 



145 




Fig. 3. 



To Fasten: Bring the free end of the lash rope 
down in rear of the load on the near side (see 
Fig. 3) and passing it under make fast, preferably 
around the two parts of the lash rope that lead 
to the cincha hook. 



146 HORSE TACKING 



LIFTING HITCH 

A One-Man Hitch 

This is a hitch that is used with a saw buck saddle 
and where no sobre-jalma is used. It has a tendency 
to lift the corners of the load away from the side of 
the animal. It is one of the true one-man hitches as 
one man can throw it as easily as two. 

To avoid confusion in the diagrams the sling ropes are not shown. 



LIFTING HITCH 



147 




Fig. 1. 

The loads being slung to throw the Lifting Hitch: 

Fig. /. From the near side the Packer throws the cincha 
and rope across the packs. Reaching under the 
mule's belly he grasps the cincha and brings it out 
on the near side. 

He then engages the rope in the hook and then 
throws the end of the rope across the packs and 
forward to the off side 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. /. 



148 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 2. 



Fig. 2. The packer now passes to the off side and for- 
ward of the load. He passes the lash rope around 
and over the forward end of the off pack. Then 
down and to the rear along the lower side of the 
pack, outside the standing part of the lash rope and 
up around the rear corner of the off pack. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



LIFTING HITCH 



149 




Fig. 3. 



Fig. 3. The packer now passes the rope up and over 
and forward along the off pack, over the portions 
of the lash rope lying there, and then down and 
under that portion of the rope that passes around 
the forward part of the off pack. This is in such 
a manner that the strain when cinched will come 
between the standing rope and the forward part of 
the off pack. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 3. 



150 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 4. 



Fig. 4. The packer now passes the end of the rope on 
down, over the standing rope and under that portion 
of the lash rope that passes along the lower side 
of the off pack, and brings the end of the rope up 
and over all ropes. 

He then throws the rope across the mule and for- 
ward so that it falls forward of the near pack. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 4. 



LIFTING HITCH 



151 




Fig. 5. 



Fig. 5. The packer now passes around to the near side 
and passes the lash rope in the same manner as 
he did on the off side. He brings the rope down 
over the forward end of the near pack, then down 
along the lower side of the near pack to the rear. 
It passes over and outside the standing rope. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 5, 



152 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 6. 



Fig. 6. The packer now continues in same manner as 
on the off side. He brings the rope up and around 
the rear of the near pack, passing forward over all 
ropes, and then down and under the rope that 
passes over the forward end of the near pack. 
Thence down and over the ropes from the hook 
and under the rope that passes along the lower side 
of the near pack and out and up. 
The hitch is now ready to cinch. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 6. 



LIFTING HITCH 



153 




Fig. 7. 

Fig. 7. The packer now heaves on the ropes in the 
same manner as when they were first passed, and 
adjusting each bearing and strain so that it comes 
relatively on the packs as shown in Fig. 7. This 
varies somewhat with the shape and necessities of 
the load. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 7. 



154 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 8. 



Fig. 8. The packer now brings up the free end passing 
it forward and around the rope there, straining it 
back and making fast 

The position of the lash rooe is now as shown in 
Fig. 8. 



STIRRUP HITCH 
STIRRUP HITCH 



155 



A Tn>o-Man Hitch 
This is in the order of emergency hitches that may 
be used with a saw buck saddle, an aparejo, an ordin- 
ary riding saddle, or even, in extreme emergency, with 
nothing more than an animal and a piece of rope if 
the character of the load permit's. It is a two-man 
hitch, although it can be thrown by one man alone. 
The lash rope has neither cincha nor hook. 




Fig. 1. 
The load being slung to throw the Stirrup Hitch: 
Fig. 1. No. / throws the lash rope across the pack in 
such a manner that the center of the rope rests on 
the center of the pack. 
He then forms at this center a bight. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. I. 



15C 



HORSE PACKING 




23\ 



Fig. 2. 

Fig. 2. No. 1 now passes the end of the rope on the 
near side through the bight on the center of the 
load and in such a manner that a long bight is 
formed in the rope and that falls nearly to the 
ground on the near side. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



STIRRUP HITCH 



157 




Fig. 3. No. 2 on the off side takes the end of the rope 
on the off side and passes it through the bight on 
the center in such a manner that a long bight is 
formed and that drops nearly to the ground on 
the off side 

The position of the lash rooe is now as shown in 
Fig. 3. 



158 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 4. 

Fig. 4. No. I now passes the long bight on the near 
side underneath the mule's belly to No. 2. 
No. 2 grasps it as it is passed to him and draws it 
well out on the off side. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 4. 



STIRRUP HITCH 



159 




Fig. 5. 



Fig. 5. No. 2 now takes the long bight on the off side 
and passes it down and through the bight he has 
just received from No. I at the same time continu- 
ing and passing it on underneath the mule's belly 
to No. 1. 

No. I grasps this off bight as it is passed to him 
and draws it well out on the near side. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 5. 



160 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 6. 



Fig. 6. No. I brings the bight he has just received well 
up and slightly overlapping on the near side of 
the pack. 

He then passes the end of the rope on the near 
side up and through this bight. 

No. 2 at the same time on the off side brings the 
bight he has just received well up and slightly 
overlapping on the off pack 

He then passes the end of the rope on the off side 
up and through this bight. 
The hitch is now ready to cinch. 
The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 6. 

When ready to cinch No. I commands: 
Linen. 



STIRRUP HITCH 



161 




Fig. 7. The hitch is now cinched. 

In this case it is necessary that both No. I and No. 2 
begin and heave at the same time on the first turns 
and take the slack at the same time. This is be- 
cause there is. no hook nor friction of rope to hold 
against the cinching process at first. Virtually it 
is that one packer holds while the other heaves 
on the first turns. It is practically a simultaneous 
operation and for simplicity is so given. 
No. 2 forms a bowline at the end of the lash rope 
on the off side. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 7. 



162 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 8. 



Fig. 8. No. 2 now passes the bowline he has formed 
over and across the forward part of the load to 
No. I. 

No. / passes the end of the rope on the near side 
through the bight of the bowline and heaves on 
the rope. 

This completes the final cinch and he then makes 
fast the end of the rope. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 8. 



SADDLE HITCH 



163 



SADDLE HITCH 



As its name implies, this is a hitch to be used on 
any riding saddle. In a saddle that has no rings any 
loop that can be formed by a strap will do; also the 
stirrups may be crossed, lashed in place and the sad- 
dle hitch used as described. Also, if there is no means 
of lashing the crossed stirrups in place, the saddle 
hitch may be used by passing the rope that is between 
the two bights under the belly of the animal, and mak- 
ing the hitch as described but under the animal instead 
of across the saddle. 




Fig. 1. 



Fig. I. The ordinary stock saddle, with a double cinch, 
has been selected to illustrate this hitch. But it 



164 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 1. a 

may be adapted easily to any saddle by following 
the following principles The second diagram shows 
the plan of the saddle. 



SADDLE HITCH 



165 




Fig. 2 



Fig. 2. The Packer throws the lash rope across the 
saddle so that an equal portion falls on each side. 
Through the ring on the near side he doubles a 
portion of the rope making a bight that comes out 
beyond. 

He now does the same on the off side with the 
ring: there. 

The position of the lash rope is now as shown in 
Fig. 2. 



166 



HORSE PACKING 




Fig. 3 



Fig. 3. The packer then places the load (this is a hitch 
that will rarely be used except for game or emer- 
gency supplies) across the saddle. 
The hind legs or haunches are thrust through the 
bight on the near side. The head, neck or fore- 
quarters, through the bight on the off side. 
The packer makes a bowline on the end of the rope 
on the off side. 
The load and lash rope are now as shown in Fig. 3. 



TO CONSTRUCT A TRAVOIS 



167 




Fig. 4 



Fig. 4. The packer now takes the end of the rope on 
the near side and passes it through the bight of 
the bowline from the off side, cinching the lash 
rope as tight as the circumstances may require. 
The position of the load and lash rope is now as 
shown in Fig. 4 f 



168 HORSE PACKING 



TO CONSTRUCT A TRAVOIS 



Made with two poles, light as can be had in the 
country, from 14 to 16 feet long. The diameter at the 
tips should not be greater than 2 inches. 

At the butt, 6 inches from the end, cut a notch deep 
enough to hold the turns of a rope. 

Lay a manta or pack cover (or blanket if nothing 
else is available) on the ground. Place the poles at the 
two opposite sides leaving about 6 feet of the butts 
beyond the ends to act as shafts for the mule. 

Roll the poles, toward each other thereby winding 
up the pack cover until it takes on the proportions of 
a litter or stretcher, i. e., with a space left between the 
poles of 2 or 3 feet Fasten the rolled pack cover or 
blanket by lashings or nails, horseshoe nails will be 
always available in any pack outfit. 

Lash two cross sticks to hold the poles at their 
distance. 

At the butts of the poles make fast a rope at the 
notch previously cut and passing from one pole to the 
other as a sling. This sling should have a slack of 
about 18 inches. 

At the tips fasten another sling with plenty of slack, 
or two ropes. These are to use in lifting the end of 
the travois in passing over bad ground or through 
fords. 

The travois is now as shown in Fig. I. 



LITTER FOR PACK TRANSPORTATION 169 




Fig. X 



170 



HORSE PACKING 




Place the sling at the butts over the pack saddle or 
aparejo and lash with the pole hitch. (See Pole Hitch, 
page 114.) 

The travois is now as shown in Fig. 2. 



LITTERS 171 




Suggestion for constructing litter for pack trans- 
portation. 




172 



HORSE PACKING 




The animal must be well blanketed and the founda- 
tion poles for the litter well lashed on. The litter is 
then securely fastened to the foundation poles as 
shown. (See Hitches.) 



APPENDIX 173 



APPENDIX 



SPLICES 

There are two forms of splices used for joining two 
ropes together, a "short splice" and a "long splice." 

The short splice is used where a rope does not have 
to run through a block. 

The long splice is used where the diameter of a 
rope must not be increased and so that it may still 
pass through a block. The long splice takes a good 
deal of rope. 

A splice weakens a rope about one-eighth. 

A cut splice is also shown but it is not recom- 
mended as it brings the strain on the inside of the 
splice, the weakest part. 



Short Splice — Where a rope does not need to run through 
a block, this is a quick splice. It is more trouble- 
some than the eye splice though the principle is 
identical. 





The two ends, unlaid, should be brought together 
carefully with the strands opposite and between as 
in Fig. / and Fig. 2. It is best to seize, i. e., wrap 
them temporarily, in this position. 



174 



APPENDIX 




Fig. 3. 



The free strands are then interwoven with the laid 
up rope, over and under (Fig. 3) and the result will 
be as Fig. 4. 




Fig. 4. 



If a sufficient splice is made this may be tapered 
by cutting off fibers, but this is not necessary as it 
a patch job in itself. 
Splicing cannot be successfully described, the 
exactness becomes confusing in its length. But the 
process is simple with a rope in one's hands and 
the diagram before the eyes. 



APPENDIX 



175 



Long Splice. — This splice is used when the rope is 
to run through a block or when the diameter of the 
rope must not be enlarged. 

Unlay the strands of each rope for a convenient 
length and bring together as for a short splice. 



XWWWVv? 




Fig. 1 and 2. Unlay to any desired length Strand D 
of one rope, laying in its place the nearest strand A 
of the other rope. 




Fig. 2. 



176 



APPENDIX 



Fig. 3 and 4. Repeat the operation in the opposite 
direction with the other two strands, C and F. 



5S^N%V*\\S 



Fig. 3. 





Fig. 4. 



The ends of the strands should not be trimmed off 
close until the rope has been thoroughly stretched by 
work. 

The ends may be fastened by tieing, running between 
strands, whipping with a few turns, or sewing. 



Eye Splice — In order to form a neat eye in the end of a 
rope either empty or around a thimble — a thimble 
being a metal ring or loop to prevent chafing the 
outside being dished to fit the round of the rope — 
the strands are unlaid for a distance equal to three 
times the circumference of the rope and laid down 



APPENDIX 



177 




Fig. 1. 




on the rope after having shaped or fitted the eye 
to the required size. The strands of the rope are 
now pried open and the unlaid strands passed 
through as shown in the diagrams. 
This weaving should be continued over and under 
as shown until the length of strands (three times 
the circumference of the rope) are used up. 



178 



APPENDIX 




Fig. 3. 




To taper the splice the unlaid strands should have 
a portion of the fibers cut out after the first or 
second weave has been made. The whole may then 
be whipped if desired. A marlinspike or tapered 
round stick should be used to pry open the strands. 



APPENDIX 



179 




Fig. 2. 



Flemish Eye— Is made by unlaying- one strand of rope a 
little more than the circumference of the eye re- 
quired. 

The two stranded part is now bent around in the 
eye and laid alongside the rope. 

The strand which was removed is laid in its own 
groove but in a backward direction and three strands 
having been tapered by cutting away from time to 
time some of the fibers after the eye is complete the 
tapered strands can be tucked in to make a neat 
finish, as in a splice. It may also be whipped if 
desired. 



180 



APPENDIX 




Timber Hitch 




Clove Hitch 



A Clove Hitch will 
bind against any strain 
and can easily be cast 
loose. Round Turn is 
to take in slack and 
hold it quickly or to 
pay out slowly; it is 
not intended to hold 
and bind. 



Timber Hitch- 
Will hold. 
A quick hitch 
to secure a 
spar or log. 



azzzzzzz* 




Timber Hitch and Half Hitch- 
former. 



an 



improvement on the 



APPENDIX 



181 




Single Sheet Bend — or Weaver's Knot, for joining ends of 
ropes together and without jamming, also to join 
one rope onto an eye splice 




Double Bend — Much more secure than the single bend. 



182 



APPENDIX 




Mousing 





Cat's Pav> Fig. 1. 





Cat's Paxo Fig. 2. 



Cat's Paw Fig. 3. 



APPENDIX 



183 




Bowline — 

For making a 
loop or bight in 
a rope that will 
not slip. 
(Upper diagram). 



Running Bowline — 
Used where a 
running noose 
is desired and 
where the 
smaller loop 
cannot jam or 
bind. 

(Lower diagram) 




184 



APPENDIX 




Half Hitch and Seizing — ^ simple, semi-permanent loop. 





Midshipman's Hitch — A much better way of making the 
above, for the rope jams itself, and there is but 
little strain on the seizing. A man overboard catch- 
ing a rope can make this — passing the bight be- 
tween his legs and pressing the ropes together in 
his grasp in place of seizing. He could not tie a 
bowling or a noose unless he had slack, 



APPENDIX 



185 




Modern Midshipman 
Hitch 



Blackrveil Hitch 



Double Blaclffvell 
Hitch 





Nippering a Bight 
Used when strain is to come all or chiefly on one rope. 



186 



APPENDIX 





Sheepshank — 
For shortening 
rope without cutting. 



Cat's Pan 
Another Form 



APPENDIX 



187 



N. B. — In the following diagrams the knots, hitches, 
bends, etc., are shown open. They should be tightened 
and jammed to hold. 




Running Knot — or slip knot. 




^S 



Figure Eight Knot — Used for the same purpose as thumb 
knot. 



SSSSS 




Thumb or Overhand Knot — Used in end of rope to keep it 
from fraying or running through sheave of a blqck. 



188 



APPENDIX 




Granny Knot — Worthless, will slip; notice the bights, 
in and out. 




Square Knot or Reef Knot — Will hold. 




Thief Knot — Worthless, will slip; notice ends on oppo- 
site sides. 



APPENDIX 



189 




True Lover's Knot or Double Bow — Effective in securing 
wrists of prisoners — as handcuffs, drawing tight and 
securing with a reef knot. With small twine a man's 
thumbs may be thus tied behind his back effectively 
holding him helpless. 




Slip Knot or Draw Knot — Doubling back a reef knot, an- 
other form of slip knot. 



190 



APPENDIX 




Marlinspike Hitch. — Used for putting on stoppings, seiz- 
ing, etc. The turns are made on a marlinspike or 
a hard wood stick as shown. The wrapping is 
started and the stick, at right angles to the rope 
to be wound, is passed in a continuous circling 
around and around. It keeps a strong tension on 
the wrapping and feeds the small stuff as it goes, 
slowly and taut. 



APPENDIX 



191 




Wall Knot— This is the first and simplest of the many 
decorative knots; it is also used on the end of a 
rope to prevent its slipping- through a hole as when 
made into a rope bucket handle. It is also used 
as the first step in a shroud knot. Like a splice 
it can be easier followed in diagrams than in ex- 
planation. 

Each strand of the end of a rone is brought under 
and then up through the bight formed by its neigh- 
boring strand to the left. It must be tightened slowly 
with a little pull on each strand and so on until all 
are tight. 

The ends may be then tucked in or whipped. 
Fig. 3 A is a. view from the top showing how the 
strands must be brought up from below and through 
the bight to the left. 



192 



APPENDIX 




Crorvn on Wall — This may be added to the Wall Knot. 
The Crown Knot is also the start of a Back Splice 
sometimes vised in place of whipping the end of a 
rope. 

This Crown is the reverse of the Wall Knot as it 
is made by bringing each strand over and then down 
through the bight formed by the neighboring strand. 





Double Wall Knot— Started the same as a Wall Knot and 
then instead of tightening the ends are again passed 
under and up through the bight just ahead of them. 



APPENDIX 193 





Treble Wall Knot — Same as the preceding: but continuing 
the ends under and up through the next bight a 
third time. The skill in these knots is to tighten 
them evenly, otherwise thev present an irregular 
appearance. 

With any of the Wall Knots the strands may be 
laid up again into rope so that the knot will be at 
some distance from the end; this srives a fancy 
appearance and a number of combinations may be 
worked out of these various knots. 

Pointing a Rope — This is an ornamental finish to the end 
of a rope; it is also useful for a rope that has to 
be hurriedly rove through a block. 
A temporary seizing is put around a rope as far 
from the end as the beginning of the point. The 
strands of the rope are unravelled into yarns — the 
yarns being the small bundles of fibers or strings 
of which the strand is composed. 
All of the yarns at the outside of the rope, that is, 
those that lie on the circumference, are stopped 
back (Fig. I.) while those left and forming what is 
now the core, are cut and scraped down to a 
tapering shape somewhat like a blunt carrot. 
This blunt carrot part is now tigfhtly wrapped with 
marlin or small stuff so that it becomes a rigid 
conical end. These operations are shown in an un- 
finished state in Fig. /. 

The rim of yarns around the rope's circumference, 
and which have been stopped back, are now known 
as nettles and are separated into two divisions. 



194 



APPEND 

w 




Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 

Each alternating nettle — or odd numbered one — Is 
stopped back. 

The even numbered ones are brought forward and 
three turns of twine are taken round them, the 
last turn being given a half hitch to hold it in 
place. 

The even numbered nettles are now lightly stopped 
back and the odd nettles brought forward and three 
turns of twine taken around them in the same man- 
ner as before. This twine is the warp. (See Fig. 2.) 
This weaving is continued until the end. To keep 
the taper it will be necessary to cut out or thin 
down the yarns from time to time. If cut out. 
their ends can be held down by the wrapping of 
the warp. 



APPENDIX 



195 




To finish, the nettles are given a round turn over 
the last three wrappings of the warp. The warp 
is hauled taut, the nettles are pulled taut and the 
ends cut off close. The whole may be shellacked. 
Plaited Ring — An ornament for rings where they are 
not used for passing latigoes or lashings. Two 
lengths of small stuff are taken, one twice the 
length of the other. 

At the middle part of the long piece, make a Clove 
Hitch around the ring that at the same time, takes 
in and securely fastens one end of the shorter piece. 
This gives three free ends. Each free end is made 
into a half hitch. 

The ornamenting may stop when that part of a 
ring is reached where the chafe comes. The ends 
are fastened by tucking them under the preceding 
turns. A coat of shellac may be given the whole. 



196 



APPENDIX 




Sling Net for Cargo — Sometimes useful in grouping 
small articles in a load where pack mant'a is not 
available. 



APPENDIX 



197 




INDEX 



Aparejo — page 

Adjusting 30 

Aparejo Cover, see Sobre-jalma 

Care of 31 

Cincha for, Specifications 42 

Definition / / 

Description 24 

Padding for 27 

Ribs for 24 

Specifications for // 

Bell Horse // 

Bend, Single Sheet 181 

Bend, Double Sheet 181 

Bivouac / / 

Blackball Hitch 182 

Blind- 
Definition // 

Specifications for 45 

Borvline 183 

Brake // 

Breast Strap / / 

Bunch // 

Causes of 32 

Treatment for 32 

Belly 33 

Cargo — 

Definition / / 

To Make Up 52 

To Sling 60 

Weights of 16 

(See Slings) 



PAGE 

Cargador //, 15 

Cats Pam 182, 186 

Chief Packer // 

Cincha — 

Definition / / 

Specifications for 44 

Cordage, see Appendix 173 

Corona 

Definition / / 

Specifications for 44 

Cross Sling 75 

Dock-piece 12 

Sore 30 

Specifications for 39-41 

Crupper — 

Definition / / 

Lacing — to Aparejo 29 

Specifications for 39 

Definition / / 

Dock- 
Diamond Hitch, Single 78 

Diamond Hitch, Double 92 

Cross Tree — 

Definition / / 

Description 122, 124 

Hitch 132 

Double Bend 181 

. Double Sling 74 

Endurance, Records of 16,17 

Flemish Eye 179 

General Rules 14 

Cirth 12 

Hitch ... 12 

Hitches, Packing — 

Cross-Tree Hitch 132 

Diamond Hitch, Single 78 

Diamond Hitch, Double 92 

Pole Hitch 115 

Lifting Hitch 146 

Saddle Hitch 163 

Squaiv Htich 140 

Stirrup Hitch 155 

Travois, see Pole Hitch 170 



PAGE 
Hitches, Rope 

Blackball Hitch 49 

Blackball Hitch, Double 49 

Clove Hitch 180 

Half Hitch 180 

Marlinspike Hitch 190 

Midshipman's Hitch 184 

HooJ^, cineha, (wooden) 48 

Knots 187, 189 

Ending Rope in 191 , 

Fancy , .... 

Lair Rope 12, 46 

Lairing Uu Pack 52 

Lar^s Head 182 

Lash Rope 12, 46, 48 

Latigo — | ■** 

Definition 12 

To Fasten 50, 51 

Lifting Hitch 146 

Litter, see Travois 168 

Load, Definition 13 

Riding 13 

Loads, Maximum 16 

Long Splice 175 

Manta, see also Pack Cover 46 

Marches 16 

Marlingspike Hitch 190 

Maximum Travel 16 

Midshipman s Hitch 184 

„ (Modern) 185 

Military Purposes, Organization for 15 

Mousing 182 

Mule- 
Standard of 19 

Description of 21 

Diseases of 23 

Near Side 12 

Off Side 12 

On Side 12 

Organization, Standard of ■ 15 

One-Man Hitch, Wiman 104 

One-Man Sling 66 

Pack 12 



PAGE 

Pack Blanket 12 

(To lair up) 52 

„ Cover, Specifications 46 

„ Mule, Standard of 19 

„ „ Description of 12 

„ „ Diseases of 23 

„ Train 12, 15 

„ (see also Marches and Endurance) 

Master 12, 15 

Packer 12, 15 

Padding , 47 

Picket Rope 12 

Pole Hitch 114 

Records of Endurance 16 

Rendering Ring 13 

Ribs, for Aparejo 24, 47 

Riding Load 13 

Sling for, Cross Sling 75 

Hitch for 92 

Rigging 13 

Ring, Plaited 195 

Rope — 

Lair 12, 46 

Lash 12, 46, 48 

Splices, etc 173 

Rules, General 14 

Running Bowline 183 

Part 13 

Rope 13 

Saddle Hitch 163 

Saw Buck Sling, No. 1 125 

Saw Buck Sling, No. 2 128 

Sheepshank 186 

Single Sheet Bend 181 

Sling, Double 74 

Sling, Cross 57 

Slinging Cargo 60 

One-Man Sling 66 

Sling Rope 13, 46 

Sobre-jalma 

. Definition 13 

Specifications 41 

To fasten 30 



PAGE 

Splices 173 

Eye 176 

Long 175 

Shorl 173 

Squaw Hitch 140 

„ Pack Mule 19 

Standard of Organization 15 

Standing Rope 13 

Part 13 

Stirrup Hitch 155 

Striding Load 13 

Top Load 13 

Travois 168, 173 

Travel, Rateof 16 

Weights of Cargoes 16 

Wiman One-Man Hitch 17 



14 A NHR C%CW Q The textb °°k for out- 

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are discussed in detail by the author. Chapter headings are: — The 
Outlook for the Growing of Apples — Planning for the Orchard — 
Planting and Growing the Orchard— Pruning the Trees — Cultivation 
and Cover Cropping — Manuring and Fertilizing — Insects and Dis- 
eases Aifecting the Apple — The Principles and Practice of Spraying 
— Harvesting and Storing — Markets and Marketing — Some Hints on 
Renovating Old Orchards — The Cost of Growing Apples. 

5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes. The 

book opens with a short chapter on the origin and development of 
the Airedale, as a distinctive breed. The author then takes up the 
problems of type as bearing on the selection of the dog, breeding, 
training and use. The book is designed for the non-professional dog 
fancier, who wishes common sense advice which does not involve 
elaborate preparations or expenditure. Chapters are included on the 
care of the dog in the kennel and simple remedies for ordinary 
diseases. 



6. THE AUTOMOBILE— Its Selection, Care and 
Use, by Robert Sloss. This is a plain, practical discussion of 
the things that every man needs to know if he is to buy the right car 
and get the most out of it. The various details of operation and 
care are given in simple, intelligent terms. From it the car owner 
can easily learn the mechanism of his motor and the art of locating 
motor trouble, as well as how to use his car for the greatest pleasure. 
A chapter is included on building garages. 

7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT, by 

Samuel G. Camp. A complete guide to the angler buying a new 
outfit. Every detail of the fishing kit of the freshwater angler is de- 
scribed, from rodtip to creel, and clothing. Special emphasis is laid 
on outfitting for fly fishing, but full instruction is also given to the 
man who wants to catch pickerel, pike, muskellunge, lake-trout, bass 
and other freshwater game fishes. Prices are quoted for all articles 
recommended and the approved method of selecting and testing the 
various rods, lines, leaders, etc., is described. 




8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by Samuel G. 

Camp. Combine the pleasure of catching fish with the gratification 
of following the sport in the most approved manner. The sugges- 
tions offered are helpful to beginner and expert anglers. The range 
of fish and fishing conditions covered is wide and includes such sub- 
jects as "Casting Fine and Far Off," "Strip-Casting for Bass," "Fish- 
ing for Mountain Trout" and "Autumn Fishing for Lake Trout." 
The book is pervaded with a spirit of love for the streamside and 
the out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate. 
A companion book to "Fishing Kits and Equipment." The advice 
on outfitting so capably given in that book is supplemented in this 
later work by equally valuable information on how to use the 
equipment. 

9. THE HORSE— Its Breeding, Care and Use, by 
David Buffum. Mr. Buffum takes up the common, every-day 
problems of the ordinary horse-users, such as feeding, shoeing, 
simple home remedies, breaking and the cure for various equine 
vices. An important chapter is that tracing the influx of Arabian 
blood into the English and American horses and its value and limi- 
tations. Chapters are included on draft-horses, carriage horses, and 
the development of the two-minute trotter. It is distinctly a sensible 
book for the sensible man who wishes to know how he can improve 
his horses and his horsemanship at the same time. 



10. THE MOTOR BOAT— Its Selection, Care and 

Use, by H. W. Slauson. The intending purchaser is advised 
as to the type of motor boat best suited to his particular needs and 
how to keep it in running condition after purchased. The chapter 
headings are: Kinds and Uses of Motor Boats — When the Motor 
Balks — Speeding of the Motor Boat — Getting More Power from a 
New Motor — How to Install a Marine Power Plant — Accessories — 
Covers, Canopies and Tops — Camping and Cruising — The Boathouse. 

11. OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert Wells. 

Mr. Wells has perfected a method of signalling by means of wig- 
wag, light, smoke, or whistie which is as simple as it is effective. 
The fundamental principle can be learned in ten minutes anc 7 its 
application is far easier than that of any other code new in use. 
It permits also the use of cipher and can be adapted to almost any 
imaginable conditions of weather, light, or topography. 

12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef Brunner. 

After twenty years of patient study and practical experience, Mr. 
Brunner can, from his intimate knowledge, speak with authority on 
this subject. "Tracks and Tracking" shows how to follow intelli- 
gently even tne most intricate animal or bird tracks. It teaches how 
to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the many tell-tale 
signs of the chase that would otherwise pass unnoticed. It proves 
how it is possible to tell from the footprints the name, sex, speed, 
direction, whether and how wounded, and many other things about 
wild animals and birds. All material has been gathered first hand; 
the drawings and half-tones from photographs form an important 
part of the work. 




13. VFING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by Charles 

Askins. Contains a full discussion of the various methods, 
such as snap-shooting, swing and half-swing, discusses the flight of 
birds with reference to the gunner's problem of lead and range and 
makes special application of the various points to the different birds 
commonly shot in this country. A chapter is included on trap 
shooting and the book closes with a forceful and common-sense 
oresentation of the etiquette of the field. 



14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POULTRY, by 

Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler discusses from personal ex- 
perience the best-known general purpose breeds. Advice is given 
from the standpoint of the man who desires results in eggs and stock 
rather than in specimens for exhibition. In addition to a careful 
analysis of stock — good and bad — and some conclusions regarding 
housing and management, the author writes in detail regarding 
Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, 
Mediterraneans and the Cornish. 

15. RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING, by Charles 

Askins. A practical manual describing various makes and mechan- 
isms, in addition to discussing in detail the range and limitations in 
the use of the rifle. Treats on the every style and make of rifle 
as well as their use. Every type of rifle is discussed so that the 
book is complete in every detail. 

16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace Kephart. 

This book is the result of painstaking tests and experiments. Prac- 
tically nothing is taken for granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and 
Part II with the shotgun. The man seeking guidance in the selec- 
tion and use of small firearms, as well as the advanced student of 
the subject, will receive an unusual amount of assistance from this 
work. The chapter headings are : Rifles and Ammunition — The 
Flight of Bullets — Killing Power — Rifle Mechanism and Materials — 
Rifle Sights — Triggers and Stocks — Care of Rifle — Shot Patterns and 
Penetration — Gauges and Weights — Mechanism and Build of 
Shotguns. 

17. THE YACHTSMAN'S HANDBOOK, by Herbert 

L. Stone. The author and comprer of this work is the editor of 
" Yachting." He treats in simple language of the many problems 
confronting the amateur sailor end motor boatman. Handling 
ground tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the use of the lead 
line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are all given careful 
attention. Some light is thrown upon the operation of the gasoline 
motor, and suggestions are made for the avoidance of engine 
troubles. 

18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS, by Wil- 
liams Haynes. This is a companion book to "The Airedale," 
and deals with the history and development of both breeds. For 
the owner of the dog, valuable information is given as to the use of 
the terriers, their treatment in health, their treatment when sick, 
the principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules. 



19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMATEUR, by Capt. 

E. T. Morton. A short treatise on the simpler methods of find- 
ing position at sea by the observation of the sun's altitude and the 
use of the sextant and chronometer. It is arranged especially for 
yachtsmen arid amateurs who wish to know the simpler formulae 
for the necessary navigation involved in taking a boat anywhere off 
shore. Illustrated with drawings. Chapter headings : Fundamental 
Terms — Time — The Sumner Line— The Day's Work, Equal Altitude, 
and Ex-Meridian Sights — Hints on Taking Observations. 

20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by Julian A. 

Dimock. A solution of all the problems in camera work out-of- 
doors. The various subjects dealt with are : The Camera — Lens and 
Plates — Light and Exp osure— Development — Prints and Printing — 
Composition — Landscapes — Figure Work— Speed Photography — The 
Leaping Tarpon — Sea Pictures — In the Good Old Winter Time — 
Wild Life. 

21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by Dillon 

Wallace. Mr. Wallace has brought together in one volume all 
the valuable information on the different ways of making and carry- 
ing the different kinds of packs. The ground covered ranges from 
man-packing to horse-packing, from the use of the tump line to 
throwing the diamond hitch. 

22. THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. 

This is a companion book to "The Airedale" and "Scottish and Irish 
Terriers" by the same author. Its greatest usefulness is as a guide 
to the dog owner who wishes to be his own kennel manager. A full 
account of the development of the breed is given with a description 
of best types and standards. Recommendations for the care of 
the dog in health or sickness are included. The chapter heads 
cover such matters as: — The Bull Terrier's History — Training the 
Bull Terrier — The Terrier in Health — Kenneling — Diseases. 




23. THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. 
As in his other books on the terrier, Mr. Haynes takes up the origin 
and history of the breed, its types and standards, and the more ex- 
clusive representatives down to the present time. Training the Fox 
Terrier — His Care and Kenneling in Sickness and Health — and the 
Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put — are among the phases 
handled. 

24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace Tabor. 
Illustrated with diagrams. The author regards the house and 
grounds as a complete unit and shows how the best results may be 
obtained by carrying the reader in detail through the various phases 
of designing the garden, with the levels and contours necessary, 
laying out the walks and paths, planning and placing the arbors, 
summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting and placing trees, shrubs, 
vines and flowers. Ideal plans for plots of various sizes are appended , 
as well as suggestions for correcting mistakes that have been made 
through "starting wrong." 




25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES, by 

oamuel G. Camp. This is an art that is comparatively new in 
this country although English anglers have used the dry fly for 
generations. Mr. Camp has given the matter special study and is 
one of the few American anglers who really understands the matter 
from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the fish. His book 
takes up the process in that order, namely — How to Outfit for Dry 
Fly Fishing — How, Where, and When to Hast — The Selection and 
Use of Floating Flies — Dry Fly Fishing for Brook, Brown and 
Rainbow Trout — Hooking, Playing and Landing — Practical Hints on 
Dry Fly Fishing. 

26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold Whiting 

olauson. Deals with the practical problems of motor operation. 
The standpoint is that of the man who wishes to know how and 
why gasoline generates power and something about the various 
types. Describes in detail the different parts of motors and the 
faults to which they are liable. Also gives full directions as to re- 
pair and upkeep. Various chapters deal with Types of Motors—^ 
Valves — Bearings — Ignition — Carburetors — Lubrication — Fuel -^- 
Two Cycle Motors. 



27. ICE BOATING, by H. L Stone, illustrated with 

diagrams. Here have been brought together all the available in= 
formation on the organization and history of ice-boating, the build- 
ing of the various types of ice yachts, from the small 15 footer to 
the 600-foot racer, together with detailed plans and specifications. 
Full information is also given to meet the needs of those who wish 
to be able to build and sail their own boats but are handicapped by 
the lack of proper knowledge as to just the points described in this 
volume. 

28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold H. Hilton. Mr. 

Hilton is the only man who has ever held the amateur champion- 
ship of Great Britain and the United States in the same year. In 
addition to this, he has, for years, been recognized as one of the 
most intelligent, steady players of the game in England. This book 
is a product of his advanced thought and experience and gives the 
reader sound advice, not so much on the mere swinging of the clubs 
as in the actual playing of the game, with all the factors that enter 
into it. He discusses the use of wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, 
the art of approaching, tournament play as a distinct thing in itself, 
and kindred subjects. 

29. INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C. Corbett. 

A discussion of the meaning, method and value of intensive methods 
in agriculture. This book is designed for the convenience of prac- 
tical farmers who find themselves under the necessity of making a 
living out of high-priced land. 

30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by Williams 

Haynes. This is a companion volume to PRACTICAL DOG 
KEEPING, described below. It goes at length into the funda- 
mental questions of breeding, such as selection of types on both 
sides, the perpetuation of desirable, and the elimination of undesir- 
able, qualities, the value of prepotency in building up a desired 
breed, etc. The arguments are illustrated with instances of what 
has been accomplished, both good and bad, in the case of well- 
known breeds. 

31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by Williams 

Haynes. Mr. Haynes is well known to the readers of the OUTING 
HANDBOOKS as the author of books on the terriers. His new 
book is somewhat more ambitious in that it carries him into the 
general field of selection of breeds, the buying and selling of dogs, 
the care of dogs in kennels, handling in bench shows and field trials, 
and at considerable length into such subjects as food and feeding, 
exercise and grooming, disease, etc. 




32. PRACTICAL TREE PLANTING, by C. R. 

Pettis. The author, who is the New York State Forester, takes up 
the general subject of reforesting, covering nature's method and the 
practical methods of broadcast seed-sowing, seed spot planting, 
nursery practice, etc. The various species are described and their 
adaptability to varying conditions indicated. Results of reforesting 
are shown and instructions are given for the planting of wind- 
breaks and shade trees. 

33. GUNSMITHING FOR THE AMATEUR, by 

Edward C. Grossman. Mr. Crossman, who is one of the best- 
known rifle experts in the country, takes up in detail the care and 
repair of the gun. He discusses such questions as The Present 
Development of the Gun — Tools for the Amateur — Rifle Barrels — 
Smooth Bore Barrels — Rifle Actions — Pistol and Gun Actions — Re- 
finishing and Processing — The Stock, Sights and Aids to Accuracy. 

34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOTING, by A. L. 

A. Himmelwright. A new and revised edition of a work that has 
already achieved prominence as an accepted authority on the use of 
the hand gun. Full instructions are given in the use of both revolver 
and target pistol, including shooting position, grip, position of arm, etc. 
The book is thoroughly illustrated with diagrams and photographs 
and includes the rules of the United States Revolver Association 
and a list of the records made both here and abroad. 

35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod. This 

is a book for both fancier and market breeder. Full descriptions 
are given of the construction of houses, the care of the birds, pre- 
paration for market, and shipment. Descriptions of the various 
breeds with their markings and characteristics are given. Illustrated 
with photographs and diagrams. 

36. INSECTS ON THE FARM, by E. P. Felt. 

A practical manual by the New York State Entomologist. He 
classifies insects — good and bad — according to crops and gives direc- 
tions for the eradication of the harmful and the encouragement of 
the desirable. Full descriptions are given of the principal varieties. 



37. MARINE GAS ENGINEERING, by A. L. 

Brennan, jr. This is a practical manual written from the stand- 
point of a teaching engineer. All the details of marine gas engine 
construction and operation are described, step by step, with explan- 
atory diagrams. All technical terms and appliances are fully denned 
and the latest developments and refinements are traced and described. 
It is a book for the man who wants to understand and operate his 
own engine. 

38. THE RUNNING HOUND, by Roger Williams. 

This includes the greyhound and all the deer and staghounds that 
run by sight alone. The origin of the various breeds is traced and 
and striking individuals in each class are described. Instructions 
are given for breeding, care rnd training for field and show purposes. 
Illustrated with photographs of types. 

39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by Charles 

r . Holder. Mr. Holder covers the whole field < f his subject 
devoting a chapter each to such fish as the tuna, the tarpon, amber- 
jack, the sail fish, the yellow-tail, the king fish, the barracuda, the 
sea bass and the small game fishes of Florida, Porto Rico, the Pacific 
Coast, Hawaii, and the Phi ippines. The habits and habitats of the 
fish are described, together with the methods and tackle for taking 
them. The book concludes with an account of the development 
and rules of the American Sea Angling Clubs. Illustrated. 

40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S. Carpenter. 

A book that meets the increasing interest in outdoor life in the cold 
weather. Mr. Carpenter discusses such subjects as shelter equipment, 
clothing, food, snowshoeing, skiing, and winter hunting, wild life in 
winter woods, care of frost bite, etc. It is based on much actual ex- 
perience in winter camping and is fully illustrated with working 
photographs. 

41. THE TRAILING HOUND, by Roger Williams. 

In this book General Williams takes up the hounds that run by scent, 
such as the foxhound, the bloodhound, and the beagle. He gives 
fall instructions for care in the kennels, feeding, treatment of disease, 
breeding, etc., and follows it up with directions for training for field 
and show purposes. Illustrated with photographs of the various 
types which are fully described in the text. 

42. BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, by Victor 

Slociim. All of us like to think we could build a boat if we had 
to. Mr. Slocum tells us how to do it. Designs are given for the 
various types of canoes as well as full descriptions for preparing the 
material and putting it together. Small dories and lapstrcak boats 
arc also included. 



43. BASS AND BASS FISHING, by James A. 

Ilenshall. Mr. Henshall has made a special study of the basses 
in all parts of the United States, a work for which his connection 
with the Bureau of Fisheries has given him exceptional opportunities. 
He discusses the habits of the bass and the methods and tackle 
appropriate for its capture. He also gives in detail the latest facts 
in regard to the artificial culture and planting of this valuable 
game fish. 

44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. Practical in- 
struction for men who wish to learn the first steps in the manly 
art. Mr. Hutchison writes from long personal experience as an 
amateur boxer and as a trainer of other amateurs. His instructions 
are accompanied with full diagrams showing the approved blows 
and guards. He also gives full directions for training for condition 
without danger of going stale from overtraining. It is essentially a 
book for the amateur who boxes for sport and exercise. 

45. TENNIS TACTICS, by Raymond D. Little. 

Out of his store of experience as a successful tennis player, Mr. 
Little has written this practical guide for those who wish to know 
how real tennis ia played. He tells the reader when and how to 
take the net, discusses the relative merits of the back-court and 
volleying game and how their proper balance may be achieved; 
analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the fundamental 
necessities of successful doubles play. 

46. THE AUXILIARY YACHT, by H. L. Stone. 

Combines information on the installation of power in a boat that 
was not designed especially for it with the features desirable in de- 
signing a boat for this double use. Deals with the peculiar proper- 
ties of the auxiliary, its advantages and disadvantages, the handling 
of the boat under sail and power, etc. Does not go into detail on 
engine construction but gives the approximate power needed for 
different boats and the calculations necessary to find this figure. 

47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray. Illustrated with 

diagrams. Being a practical taxidermist, the author at once goes into 
the question of selection of tools and materials for the various stages 
of skinning, stuffing and mounting. The subjects whose handling 
is described are, for the most part, the every-day ones, such as 
ordinary birds, small mammals, etc., although adequate instructions 
are included for mounting big game specimens, as well as the pre- 
liminary care of skins in hot climates. Full diagrams accompany 
the text. 



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